Unlike food, there’s no real seasonal variation in wine. Harvest happens across the same two or three-month period in autumn, and even then it might be years until a wine is ready for release. So, without seasonality to back us up, how do we know what to drink when the weather changes?
There’s few better people to ask than Ned Goodwin. Born in the UK and raised in Australia, Goodwin is a master of wine – one of only 416 experts in the world to have passed the Institute of Masters of Wine exam. He says there’s a couple of characteristics that make a wine better suited to the cold.
“During the winter one tends to eat richer, heavier foods,” Goodwin says. “The body needs more nourishment.” These foods need a wine of equal power. “Richer wines meaning not necessarily heavier but more intense flavours. A richer mouthfeel, more intense, deep flavours, and firmer, more robust tannins tend to parry better with [richer] foods.”
Goodwin gave us some pointers on a few styles to drink once the mercury dips.
Cabernet sauvignon
An old-school favourite, cabernet sauvignon has the perfect profile for the cool weather. “It’s about those robust, savoury tannins that cabernet sauvignon boasts,” Goodwin says.
Expect flavours of blackcurrant and graphite, as well as herbal notes including mint and sage. Classic pairings such as roast lamb come to mind, but don’t be afraid to think a little outside the box for something to match it with.
“What else I really like with cabernet sauvignon is Korean barbeque,” says Goodwin. “Hot things tend to accentuate tannins – almost exacerbate them to the point where they’re too strong. But, conversely, I rather like that play on things. Cabernet sauvignon’s tannins lend a savoury element to Korean. A lot of sauces are as sweet as they are spicy, and cabernet sauvignon sort of resolves that sweetness.”
Syrah
Generally known as shiraz in Australia, syrah is the term used pretty much everywhere else in the world. In Australia, syrah tends to denote a lighter, more classically French style of the wine, popping up in cooler climates such as the Yarra Valley. Rather than dominating the palate like those produced in the Barossa, a syrah style can be incredibly versatile at the table.
Everything from cooked seafood to heavy Cantonese meat dishes work well with syrah, Goodwin says: “Syrah is a classic luncheon wine. It’s fresh, it’s bright, it’s easy to drink off-the-cuff with pretty much anything.”
Pinot noir
Completing the holy trinity of cool climate Aussie reds is pinot noir. Lighter and brighter than cabernet sauvignon and syrah, it’s also the most temperamental and hard to grow outside of the ideal climates of places such as the Yarra Valley. With a svelte, aromatic profile and various red-berry flavours, pinot noir is seriously food-friendly.
“It’s arguably the most versatile of all the red grapes,” Goodwin says. “You could put this with richer fish dishes like bouillabaisse, or a fish stew of some sort. The dish I love [to match it with] is pot-au-feu (a French-style beef and vegetable stew).”
Sparkling wine
Here, we’re talking specifically about wine made in the champagne style using pinot noir. Forget the flutes of summer prosecco, sparkling wine like this is more than rich enough for a high-calorie winter menu. Fermenting on lees (decomposing yeast cells) gives these styles their big body.
You can expect flavours here to be toasty with aromas of brioche “It also imparts a rich, creamy mouthfeel,” says Goodwin. “That allows it to parlay with richer foods.”
For Goodwin, hard cheeses are an obvious match, but richer sparklings can make an incredible and decadent duo with Japanese or Korean fried chicken.
This article is produced by Broadsheet in partnership with Levantine Hill Estate. Explore the full range of Levantine Hills wines.
