Jason Barratt is practically a Queenslander now.
Originally from Melbourne, Barratt took his first steps into the world of hospitality in the Victorian capital. He was a senior sous-chef at Stokehouse and a co-owner of one of the city’s most beloved sandwich spots, Hector’s Deli. After selling his stake in Hector’s, he started his journey north in 2018 with an 18-month stint as head chef at Byron Bay’s Raes on Wategos, then spent a further five years as executive chef at Paper Daisy in the Northern Rivers.
When he was tapped by lauded restaurateur Andrew McConnell to run the kitchens at his new Brisbane venues – an outpost of Asian-influenced eatery Supernormal and all-day European spot Bar Miette – Barratt made the move across the Queensland border.
Seven months down the line and both Barratt and Supernormal have found themselves firmly entrenched in the local scene, with a reputation for serving dishes that feel “very Queensland”. Less than a year ago, all he had was a hopeful vision and a list of producers.
“In the inception of the venue, we really focused on the produce,” he said. “It is probably the biggest point of difference between Supernormal Melbourne and Supernormal Brisbane – the produce [in Queensland] is just so different. We basically spent the first month just doing research and chatting with other chefs and talking to suppliers, and then making those connections, before we even really put any pen to paper.”
To say Barratt finds fish and fruit “a bit more exciting” might be an understatement. His respect for, and connection to, local fishermen such as Chris Bolton, Daniel Flemming and Ben Murray – as well as nearby oyster farmers – is palpable.
“We buy directly from an oyster farmer based in South Stradbroke. It’s probably the most northern commercial oyster that you can get. We were really specific on wanting to use these ones because of the locality of it.”
Barratt is particularly proud that they’re able to serve line-caught reef fish. There’s a coral trout dish currently on the menu which sees the team take fish caught by Bolton, steam it and serve it with aged soy, ginger and spring onion. The fact that the fish can hold its own and be treated so simply speaks to its quality and freshness.
He also marvels at the short time it takes fish to get from the reef to the restaurant. “Seafood like Hervey Bay scallops and Moreton Bay bugs, we see them everywhere, but when you get them fresh and direct it’s just so, so much better,” he says.
The bugs are proving a major hit. Used in a take on crab toast, Barratt says it’s almost competing “one-for-one” with the famous Supernormal lobster roll.
Barratt was also keen to use produce from Mapleton’s Falls Farm, having already worked with the team at other venues.
“They’re just incredible. They grow the most unreal fruit, lots of varieties of cirtus and vegetables… a lot of the produce we buy from them is not available at the markets or available through other suppliers, like heirloom zucchini varieties for example. We’ve got eight different types of these on the menu at the moment.”
Almost all eight are used on one of Barratt’s favourite dishes: a fried rice cake topped with a mix of different zucchinis from Falls Farm. Some zucchinis are roasted, some pickled, some freshly shaved, some used for their flowers, but all are dressed simply with a black sesame dressing.
Barratt hasn’t yet spent a full calendar year in the Supernormal kitchen, so what the produce he’s getting will look like in winter and autumn remains unknown – though one thing is clear: when it comes to picking the best Queensland produce, Barratt knows where to look.
The point of difference with Queensland produce can be seen in more than just food – it affects drinks, too. Great Northern’s premium new beer Long Run is inspired by the state’s outback and was designed specifically for drinking in Queensland’s unique climate. The golden-hued brew is made with 100-per-cent Aussie barley, with subtle tropical hop notes, citrus aroma, slight malt sweetness and a crisp finish.
“Up here, we have the tropical warmer climate. I enjoy this climate more for cooking – I think it’s a bit more exciting,” Barratt says.
This article is produced by Broadsheet in partnership with Long Run by Great Northern Brewing Co. Long Run is a premium new beer inspired by Queensland’s outback, and brewed to bring people together.