Beans to Brew: The Art of Local Coffee Roasting and Cafe Brewing

These days, you can step into almost any Melbourne cafe and expect a decent, if not excellent, coffee. But two decades ago, when St Ali first started, that wasn’t the case.

“I came into coffee in the early days of the specialty coffee movement in Melbourne and globally,” says St Ali CEO Lachlan Ward. “Since that time, Melbourne, and people in Australia generally, have benefited from an increase in quality across the board. Amazing coffee is more accessible than ever, whether it’s in cafes or at home.”

Ward has watched the industry evolve in real time, shaped as much by rising consumer expectations as by innovation behind the bar. One of the most notable shifts in recent years has been the move towards iced drinks – from cold brew to more elaborate serves – reflecting a broader change in how people want to drink their coffee.

“There’s definitely a move towards cold coffee,” he says. “Giving our wholesale customers access to different formats allows them to bring those things to the consumer.”

Technology, too, has reshaped the day-to-day of coffee making. While automation still raises eyebrows among purists wary of losing the human touch, Ward sees it as a way to support consistency and efficiency in a demanding environment.

“There’s a big move towards the digital space and automation of different functions, both in cafes and on the supplier side,” he says. “On the cafe floor, there are different bits and pieces making it easier to make coffee around texturing, tamping and things like that.”

That shift extends beyond the machine. Platforms like Ordermentum are transforming how cafes and suppliers work together, streamlining everything from ordering to payments and delivery.

“We’ve seen real benefit in moving to Ordermentum,” Ward says. “It’s removed a lot of friction on both sides of the relationship.” For cafe owners, that friction can be the difference between a smooth service and a stressful one.

“Hospitality is a tough industry, and it’s not getting any easier,” he says. “If there are ways you can make your customers’ lives easier, you should. That’s where you can add value beyond just a bag of coffee.”

In South Yarra, Park Pantry offers a clear example of a harmonious roaster-cafe relationship. Owner Mo Visoodsak partnered with St Ali when taking over the cafe from its previous operators, working closely with the roaster to relaunch the space.

“We chose St Ali because it tastes premium, and the people are great,” she says. “They’re a very big support.” That support goes beyond the beans themselves. For Visoodsak, Ordermentum has become an essential part of day-to-day operations, especially with the convenience of next-day deliveries. 

While espresso remains the backbone of the menu, Park Pantry has leaned into alternative formats to set itself apart, embracing the rise of iced drinks. That includes cold brew taps – still relatively uncommon in Melbourne – featuring rotating single origins chosen based on seasonality and preference. The result is a lighter, more refreshing alternative to traditional espresso. 

“Customers love it because it’s light and fruity,” says Visoodsak. “Last time I used Indian beans, this time I used Costa Rican. They have a variety of options on Ordermentum that we can pick.”

As Melbourne’s coffee culture continues to evolve, it’s these relationships between roasters and cafes that are shaping how the city drinks its coffee.

This article is produced by Broadsheet in partnership with Ordermentum.