This recipe hails from the Kashmir Valley, where my father was born. Slivers of golden fried eggplant coated in a rich, flavourful and acidic gravy, best consumed with plenty of hot rice and usually some braised dark leafy greens known as haq.
It’s an incredibly easy and delicious way to prepare eggplant, and the flavour profile is unlike what you would assume from the region. Kashmiri cuisine is an amalgamation of influences from Central Asia, Persia, China and the Indian subcontinent, resulting in a unique expression of seasonality and terroir. Kashmiri vegetarian food is incredibly special, comprising dozens of dishes created using the same combination of whole and powdered spices, somehow tasting vastly different from each other. Most of the dishes happen to be vegan, as well.
Use long Lebanese eggplants for this recipe, as too much eggplant flesh from ordinary eggplants will turn the dish into an unidentifiable mush. These are available from Asian and Middle Eastern grocers, along with all of the spices required for this recipe. At no point should the whole spices be substituted for powder, or vice versa. The flavour profile of this dish requires a restrained hand for perfect balance. I know it’s difficult for some, but follow the recipe. Trust me.
Rosheen Kaul’s tamarind eggplant
Prep time: 10 minutes
Cook time: 15 minutes
Serves 4 as a side
Ingredients
2 tsp tamarind pulp
75ml hot water
300ml vegetable oil
4 Lebanese eggplants halved lengthways with stalks attached
3 long green chillies halved lengthways with stalks attached
1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
2 cloves
¼ tsp asafoetida (optional)
1 tsp ground ginger
1 tsp cumin seeds
Sea salt
Steamed rice to serve (optional)
Method
Prepare the tamarind by soaking the pulp in the hot water for 10 minutes. Use your fingers to ease the seeds out and discard them. Reserve the pulp and water.
Heat 250ml (1 cup) of the oil in a heavy-based frying pan to 160°C on a kitchen thermometer. Add the eggplant and shallow-fry, turning frequently, for 6–7 minutes until soft and golden, then transfer to a wire rack set over a tray to drain. Add the green chillies to the oil and fry for 2–3 minutes until softened. Set aside with the eggplant.
Heat the remaining oil over low heat and add the chilli powder, cloves and asafoetida (if using) and cook for 1 minute or until fragrant. Add 50ml of water and stir to form the beginnings of the sauce.
Add the ginger, cumin seeds, prepared tamarind and salt to taste, then add another 125ml of water and bring to the boil over medium heat. Taste the sauce for seasoning and adjust if necessary.
Return the fried eggplant and green chillies to the pan and toss gently to coat in the sauce. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 3–4 minutes, until the eggplant is heated through.
Serve with steamed rice, on its own or as part of a shared meal.
