“What does it mean for something to be a dessert?” asks Jean-Paul El Tom, head chef and co-owner of Baba’s Place. “People will sometimes say it’s got high sugar, [but] a lot of savoury dishes have a lot of sugar. If you start trying to find the boundaries of what a dessert means, it becomes a lot harder and an unnecessary activity.”
While El Tom’s toastie recipe is rich, sweet and creamy, it’s definitely more than just dessert. The combination of smoky banana cooked over charcoal, creamy mascarpone and crunchy Biscoff spread is as breakfast-appropriate as any sweet danish or croissant (or, as he says, “having a dessert-type food for breakfast is not uncommon”).
Charcoal features heavily in the cooking at Baba’s Place and that’s El Tom’s secret. If you’ve had Baba's smoked banana sundae, you’ll have some idea of what you’re in for here with the banana cooked over charcoal.
The key is to start with a very ripe banana, otherwise they’ll get firm and rubbery when cooked. Before moving the banana onto the heat, prick a few holes in the peel “otherwise it will split and you’ll get burnt pieces of banana,” says El Tom. “As soon as it starts drooping it’s gone too far.” The result is a soft, creamy banana infused with a subtle smokiness. If you don’t have a charcoal grill, El Tom recommends a cake rack over an open flame like a gas burner.
The other key is Biscoff spread. A spreadable version of the Belgian cookies, the caramelised biscuit-in-a-jar has become something of an obsession for El Tom. “I’ve been eating a lot of Biscoff lately,” he says. “Me and my girlfriend Georgia have had many a night where we’ve had too much Biscoff. I honestly can say I like it more than Nutella at the moment, which is a big statement.”
The final step is the one which puts the toast in toastie, but you’ll want to be careful about how far you push it when adding the sandwich to the pan. “When you toast it you don’t want to press down on it,” says El Tom. “Let it warm up slowly, crisp the bread without pressing too much on it.” You’re shooting for golden brown, crisp bread that balances the creamy texture of the filling.
To serve, El Tom recommends a little whipped cream on the side. “I love whipped cream. You don’t need it, but why not?”
Charcoal Banana, Mascarpone and Biscoff Toastie
Makes: 1 serving
Preparation time: 2 minutes + 5 minutes cooling time
Cooking time: 10 minutes
Ingredients:
1 very ripe banana, unpeeled
30g mascarpone
60g crunchy Biscoff spread
2 slices of Abbott’s Bakery Light Rye
Butter at room temp
Cream, whipped (optional)
Method:
Prick a few holes in the banana peel. Grill on a charcoal grill over high heat or on a cake rack over a gas burner (enough to blister the skin, but still holds firm and doesn’t droop).
When it cools, peel the banana and mash it with the mascarpone.
Apply Biscoff spread to each bread slice. Top one side with the banana mascarpone mix and complete the sandwich by placing the other slice spread-down on the filling. Butter each external side of the bread (not too much or it will not dry out and crisp up).
Toast in pan on medium heat until golden brown and crunchy like toast.
Serve with whipped cream if desired.
This article is produced by Broadsheet in partnership with Abbott’s Bakery.