Giorgio Linguanti moved to Australia in 2004 and noticed something disconcerting: a shortage of proper Italian cheese. Rather than accept it, the Sicilian began working curds after his shifts at other cheese factories. By 2008, he’d grown his moonlight operation into a full-blown business, Melbourne’s That’s Amore.

Linguanti now employs more than 70 people to hand-make soft cheeses such as fior di latte, burrata, ricotta and mascarpone, and counts several of the city’s top restaurants as customers, including Coda and Tonka.

To celebrate the launch of The Broadsheet Italian Cookbook, we visited That’s Amore to see how Giorgio and his team stretch fresh curds into mozzarella and burrata.

The Broadsheet Italian Cookbook features 80 recipes from Australia's best restaurants, cafes and bars. And, of course, a handy visual guide to Italian cheeses. Available now at shop.broadsheet.com.au.