What Chefs Really Think About the Michelin Guide Launching in Australia

In case you missed it, the Michelin Guide is launching in South Australia after the State Government paid an undisclosed amount for the privilege. Now, the state’s restaurants will be measured by the same inspectors and rating systems (stars, bib gourmand) as restaurants throughout Europe, Asia and the Americas. Their inaugural selection will be revealed in October.

While the guide is sometimes divisive globally among chefs and diners, its arrival represents one of the biggest shifts in the local dining landscape since the pandemic. With its international director expressing his intention to expand the guide’s footprint in Australia, we asked some of SA’s best chefs – and their interstate peers – how they’re feeling.

Alanna Sapwell, Esmay, Adelaide 

“I think this is an incredible opportunity for Australia to properly understand where we sit on the global stage. In recent years, funding pressures have made it increasingly difficult – even for outstanding venues and talent – to gain broader recognition beyond NSW and Victoria. Hopefully we’re moving toward a more inclusive national presence that reflects the depth and quality of what Australia has to offer internationally.”

James Toone, Fall From Grace, Adelaide 

“The arrival of the guide is fantastic, because it won’t just put a spotlight on awarded venues. It will also give recognition to the many talented producers and artisans who’ve been working hard behind the scenes for years. I’m sure they’d love the chance to showcase their goods within the platform of a global guide. South Australia has so much more to offer beyond its amazing restaurants, and this really helps spread the word we’re definitely worth checking out.”

Victor Liong, Lee Ho Fook, Sydney and Melbourne 

“Any attention we can get for our part of the world is welcome. All our major cities have serious and passionate hospitality operators and our local produce is world-class. The other industries surrounding restaurants – winemakers, growers, makers – will all have a spotlight on their work and passion. I see this as a rising tide that will raise the quality and standards for everyone in our industry.”

Mark Best, Infinity By Mark Best, Sydney

“Michelin coming to Australia is potentially a very important moment for local hospitality. One key driver behind the longstanding talent drain from Australia has been the absence of a Michelin Guide, something present in nearly every major developed dining nation. For years, talented Australian chefs and hospitality professionals have gone overseas to pursue that level of international recognition. Bringing Michelin here could help retain and attract talent, while inspiring the next generation to see hospitality as a serious long-term profession.

The benefits could extend far beyond restaurants alone. Michelin has the potential to elevate Australia’s dining culture globally, strengthen tourism, drive economic growth, encourage innovation, and shine a light on the extraordinary diversity of our regional food cultures. Unlike many local ratings systems, Michelin carries genuine international recognition and influence.

Having spent considerable time in the South Australian food scene, I think it is one of the most distinctive and diverse dining cultures in the country. I hope the industry there holds firm in its identity and that Michelin recognises what makes it uniquely South Australian, rather than expecting it to conform to European models.”

Corey Costelloe, 20 Chapel, Sydney

“I’d prefer if public funds were directed towards supporting local businesses, tourism infrastructure and industry development. Restaurants are struggling at the moment, and I can’t see the [Michelin Guide] fixing any of the current issues our industry is facing in order to survive these times.”

Federico Zanellato, Lumi Dining, Sydney

“Right now, many international diners think of Australia as Sydney Harbour, Melbourne coffee culture, and wineries generally. South Australia has incredible restaurants and produce, but often flies under the radar. Michelin gives the state a globally understood language of excellence. A diner from Singapore, Tokyo, London or New York immediately understands what a Michelin star means. 

It could also help stop the hospitality ‘brain drain’ in SA, which may be one of the most underrated impacts. For years, chefs and sommeliers moved interstate or overseas because that’s where the prestige and career growth were. The guide changes that equation. Young chefs can now realistically say, ‘I can build a Michelin-level career in South Australia’.”

Dave Pynt, Burnt Ends, Singapore 

“It’s a great step for South Australia, and a fantastic thing for the chefs, vineyards and Adelaide especially. But it feels like a bit of a backward step for the country as a whole. The Michelin guide is such a powerful tool of credibility. Anyone around the world will soon be able to ask, ‘Who has Michelin stars in Australia?’ and SA is the only state that’s going to show up. I understand it costs a lot of money, but it just feels like Australia doesn’t value the work and the effort of the hospitality industry as much as the people living and working in it.” 

Mandy Hall, Adelaide  

“For anyone unfamiliar with Michelin’s philosophy, the guide has long asked a simple question of restaurants. Is it worth stopping for? Service, atmosphere and beautiful spaces absolutely contribute to the overall experience, but Michelin’s core focus has been the quality of ingredients, technique, harmony, consistency and the personality of the chef expressed through the food. Which is why I think this matters so much for South Australia.

That kind of recognition comes from years of work across an entire ecosystem – including the hospitality teams and producers who have spent years building something here. I think that deserves an enormous moment of pride, because everything that has come before this point is vital. This is further recognition that this state and its hospitality offering is a place worth travelling for and paying attention to on a global stage.” (Read Mandy’s full statement.)  

Some responses have been edited for clarity and length.