Five Minutes With Julia Busuttil Nishimura on a Childhood Spent in the Kitchen

Julia Busuttil Nishimura’s books are crowd-pleasers. Her books – Ostro, A Year of Simple Family Food, Around the Table and Good Cooking Every Day – are staples seen on the shelves of many Aussie kitchens.

Her latest release changes tack. Sundays Under the Lemon Tree is a kids’ book which follows a young child who wants to be a part of her family’s Sunday cooking rituals but is told she is “too small”. The book is lightly-inspired by Busuttil Nishimura’s own childhood – so it’s no surprise that the young girl eventually joins in on the cooking.

The book is joyfully illustrated by artist Myo Yim and even contains a recipe for a lemon, apple and ricotta cake.

We spoke to the cook and author about the new book, her own childhood memories, and the cooking memories she’s making with her own kids.

Why did you decide to write a children’s book?

I have always been such a lover of children’s books. This only strengthened when I became a primary school Italian teacher and then later had my own children. I love telling stories and preserving traditions through food in my cookbooks and columns, and so I was really excited by the opportunity to expand on this for a younger audience. It has been the most amazing experience working with Myo Yim and the team at Scribble to bring this story to life. 

What’s your earliest childhood food memory? 

I feel like all of my childhood memories are around food. From the smell of onions cooking on a Sunday morning to podding broad beans on the back step with my grandmother and making ricotta together as a family. I can remember the pink ricotta baskets, sitting on the sink with steaming curds, so clearly – I must have been only four or five. 

What’s your favourite childhood food memory?

I really loved going to my aunty’s house for big family celebrations. She would always be in the kitchen making huge trays of ravjul (ricotta stuffed pasta). I would stand on a step in the kitchen and help her press the pasta dough into the moulds and shape each ravjul. It really felt magical. 

 What was the first thing you learnt to cook?

I think the first thing I learnt to cook was probably a simple cake with my mum not dissimilar to the one in Sundays Under the Lemon Tree. We would always bake together and I have such beautiful memories of being in the kitchen with her.

And what was the first thing you taught your kids to cook?

Similar to my own experience, the first thing my kids have both made would be a simple olive oil cake. One that needs only a handful of ingredients, a bowl and whisk.  

How have your own kids reacted to the book? Good reviews?

They really love it. Myo Yim’s illustrations are so captivating and really drew them in. It’s been so lovely seeing them read it together and seeing so many children already enjoying the book. I have so many readers of my cookbooks who have their own children and grandchildren, and it feels so nice seeing this book in their lives alongside my cookbooks. 

What’s your ideal family Sunday now?

My ideal family Sunday would be a slow breakfast with the newspaper. Then head off to the market to pick up produce. I would then spend the morning cooking a long lunch for family or friends and then spend the afternoon just relaxing at home or going to the park with the boys.

Sundays Under the Lemon Tree is in bookshops now (RRP $24.99).

@juliaostro