New Zealand’s South Island city of Dunedin used to be known for its Scottish heritage, scarf-wrapped uni students, bracing landscape and lo-fi, jangly guitar music (quite the combination, one could say). All of that is still there – but look closer and you’ll discover a new batch of locals putting their own marks on the food and drink scene. The spotlight is trained on seasonal, regional produce, whether it be from a stall in a farmers market, or pumping through the taps at craft breweries. Alongside all the topnotch food and drink on offer is the wild coastline of the Otago Peninsula, an ideal backdrop to eat and drink your way through the city. Here’s our guide to living large like an Otago local.
Eat: Side On
Within the pastel walls of Side On reside golden brioche scrolls, buttery croissants, cardamom buns and all manner of sweet treats glistening in cabinets – as well as a sourdough loaf that should be on your bucket list.
Owned by Renee Hope and baker Alan Baxter, the duo are Dunedin through and through, even naming the cafe after a song by hometown heroes The Clean. The light-filled space in Moray Place – a block back from the city’s central plaza The Octagon – is all polished concrete, elegant timber surfaces, handmade ceramics and art-strewn walls.
For food, there are elevated omelettes (try the crab and haloumi), or stick with a flavour-packed corned beef Reuben. Menu items are seasonal so you can expect the offering to change, but past highlights have included a porchetta and rocket sandwich with zhoug (a spicy, Middle Eastern sauce). If you’re a fan of the coffee, you can also pick up some freshly roasted beans to take home with you.
Drink: Steamer Basin Brewing
There’s a beer for all seasons at this cosy bolthole in the city’s Old Bond quarter. The craft brewery was founded by locals Paul Kelly and Karen Gazzard, who returned home after living overseas with a dream to make beers intimately connected to the city and the Otago landscape. They launched the concept at a local Farmers Market, before renovating and moving into a formerly derelict heritage brick building in No Name Alley.
Drawing on what’s available from local farms, the brewery produces supreme beers that naturally evolve with the seasons – so there’s always something new to try. One constant though, is the South Island hops and malt.
The laneway is the spot to be during summer, with the sun hitting exactly where you want it to, while the cave-like bar is enticing when the weather cools down, featuring golden lights and natural stone walls. Expect a friendly and relaxed vibe, with good drinks accompanied by pizza (with never more than three toppings).
Drink: Woof
This inclusive, queer-friendly bar has been put directly into the spotlight after not one, but two visits by Cyndi Lauper herself. Founded by locals Josh Thomas and Dudley Benson, the eclectic space is splashed with posters, lit by fairy lights, and even has an indoor greenhouse. Fame, however, isn’t a prerequisite for entry; in fact, it’s the opposite. This is a place where you can be whoever you are, and celebrate it proudly (but if you’re Cyndi they certainly won’t turn you away).
Many people come here just for the cocktails, and with good reason. Give the Black Cherry Daiquiri a go, with its maraschino cherry liqueur, white rum and lime, and maybe the zesty Blue Smoke, a wicked concoction of mezcal, yellow chartreuse, lime, blue curacao and elderflower liqueur. Fancy a standard G&T? They can do that, too. The bar food is creative and a little unexpected (try the Cajun-inspired pickle spears) with plenty of options for vegans and vegetarians.
Do: Tunnel Beach Walkway
Tunnel Beach is only 10 minutes’ drive south of the city, but feels a lot further away once you’re there. Windswept sandstone cliffs overlook crashing waves and the turquoise sea. A two-kilometre round trip walking track is flanked by rolling hills, but the main event is a (slightly spooky) historic tunnel through the headland, built by a resident in the 1870s for beach access.
The beach isn’t safe for swimming, but strolling is encouraged – it does pay to check the tides before you leave if you don’t want to get wet feet though. Your only way back out is through the tunnel again, but once back at the top, you can walk the trails of the headland to get a completely different perspective over the Southern Ocean.
Do: Otago Farmers Market
You have to be invited to open a stall at the Otago Farmers Market – so it really is only the very best Otago producers who are on-site each Saturday morning at the Dunedin Railway Station. Since its inception in 2003, the market has grown to over 65 stall holders, showcasing local goodies such as free-range eggs, specialty meats, honey, fresh fruit, seafood, craft beer and wine.
Come hungry, as you’ll likely be spending most of your time strolling around holding something delicious from the on-site food trucks, whether it be a slice of Slice of Heaven pizza (look out for the spearmint caravan), addictive Chinese crepes, dumplings, homemade pies or deli delights. There’s freshly roasted coffee available, but we’d also recommend the delicious and aromatic teas from Soul Chai.
Meeting the people behind the products is just as important, and the farmers here are a friendly bunch, and keen to share their paddock-to-plate journey. Live music adds to the carnival atmosphere. The market runs rain or shine from 8am to 12pm.
This article is produced by Broadsheet in partnership with DunedinNZ.
