Where Chefs Eat: Ben Sears Gets the “Wonderfully Crisp and Juicy” Goose at This Hong Kong Icon

Ben Sears likes to keep it interesting. The Perth-born, Melbourne-raised chef’s career spans fine dining (L’Enclume), pastry (Cutler & Co) and various cuisines, from Korean (Moon Park, Paper Bird) to Middle Eastern (Ezra) and European-ish (Public Wine Shop). Sears’s latest gig sees him importing various global influences to the traditionally Italian realm of pasta as head chef at Hong Kong’s newly opened Twist Pasta Bar, from the team behind Bourke’s.

Consider the signature: a bone marrow macaroni with curry brisket ragu inspired by local institution Kau Kee. “We enrich the macaroni with rendered bone marrow, then fold it through a slow-cooked Wagyu brisket ragu seasoned with Koon Yick Wah Kee curry powder, soy sauce and coconut cream. It’s finished with pecorino and spring onions,” he says. “Bold, rich and unmistakably Hong Kong.”

The new gig also means a whole new city of dining to explore. "I’ve been genuinely touched by how warm and welcoming everyone has been,” he says. “People in Hong Kong really love to share food recommendations, and I’ve had the best time eating my way through them.”His only complaint? “The weather this summer – which feels like a very Melbournian thing to say.”

What’s your go-to coffee spot and your order?

 Sang Roastery is just down the street from Twist. It’s a really nice room, super lovely service and the coffee is good (they roast their beans in-house). I just get a flat white because I’m a bit basic, but they do a lot of interesting single origins and pour-overs as well.

Favourite spot for a takeaway lunch?

Cheung Hing Kee in Central do Shanghainese pan-fried buns, which are textbook and truly glorious.

Where do you take visitors when they’re in town?

For Kee is a very charming old cha chaan teng that’s very well known for its pork chop rice – deservedly so. It’s one of those neighbourhood places that feels like it’s been there forever. No frills or pretence, just really tasty food.

Where’s the best place for a drink and snacks?

I like Montana. It’s a new bar by Lorenzo Antinori from Bar Leone (here in HK) and Simone Caporale from Sips (in Barcelona), so the cocktails are on point, but it doesn’t take itself too seriously. Huge vibes, great Daiquiri and a very satisfying Cubano sandwich.

Where do you go for classic HK/Cantonese food and what are you ordering?

Kau Kee is equal parts famous and infamous for its brisket noodle soups and brusque service. But there’s still always a queue, which I think is telling. I really like the curry tendon and brisket with e-fu noodles – it’s the inspiration behind our signature pasta at Twist, the bone marrow macaroni with curry brisket ragu.

Where do you go for a special occasion?

Seventh Son is pretty special. The food, service and attention to detail are outstanding. Plus, they do Cantonese dishes I’ve not seen anywhere else, which is very exciting for a food nerd like myself.

Where can you get the best dessert?

There is a charming (and tiny) tofu shop in Sai Ying Pun on the corner of Queens Road West and Eastern Street called “Daily Fresh Handmade Shop” (日日鮮手作店 – no official English name unfortunately). They have my favourite tofu pudding in Hong Kong. They also make a fresh soy milk soft serve, which is super creamy and light.

Favourite late-night feed?

Not very glamorous, but I do like the luncheon meat sandwiches from 7-Eleven and they’re always there when you need them.

Is there a hidden gem you think deserves more love?

“Rice noodle roll restaurant” 腸粉皇茶餐廳 in Jervois Street (again, no official English name) is a local place near me that does great fresh cheung fun and the owners are super lovely and incredibly hard-working people. It’s the kind of place that quietly gets everything right.

What’s your bucket-list restaurant?

There are always so many places I want to go but right now the food that Sam Lawrence is cooking at Bridges in New York looks unbelievably delicious. 

What restaurant(s) in HK do you think best represent the city?

I’ve been really impressed and inspired by the diversity of Hong Kong. In saying that, Yat Lok feels like a quintessential Hong Kong restaurant for the hole in the wall location, the bustling energy, and a Michelin-starred roast goose that’s wonderfully crispy and juicy.