Supper Partying: How To Host a $50 French Bistro Menu at Home

One of the best ways to spend a weekend afternoon is at a bistro, ideally al fresco, with ample people-watching, bottomless Suze and tonic, and plates of pâté, crab soufflé and steak au poivre. Unfortunately, I have not (yet) won the lottery, or received an inheritance from a mysteriously wealthy aunt, which means I will continue to exercise rationality – i.e. insisting “We have French bistro at home!” every time someone suggests a visit to La Cache a Vin. One day, you will see me comfortably parked outside France-Soir, Bar Copains or Mosconi every Sunday afternoon on rotation. Until then, I will make do by summoning the French bistro spirit in my own kitchen.

I understand if you’re reluctant to try to reproduce French food at home – especially for guests or when you’re on a budget. French cuisine essentially boils down to high-quality produce and specific cooking techniques. Both are DIY-achievable, if a little intimidating – hence my emphasis on a bistro menu: a more casual, home-style approach to dining that bodes well if you’re limited by time, effort and cost.

With that in mind, here’s my guide to hosting a French bistro for four from your own home – all for less than $50.

How to bistro on a pantry budget

If there’s one thing I don’t have a natural talent or passion for, it’s breadmaking. But what’s a French menu without bread? I’m very passionate about casting a high-effort illusion over my dinner parties, and the number one bread recipe for this is the viral five-minute baguette from elusive French Youtuber Mr Baguette 1. Its crunchy crust is the ideal vehicle for anything saucy or spreadable. For an easy starter, you could serve it with chicken liver pâté or compound butter: just blitz one part of your ingredients of choice (my go-tos are garlic and herbs, caramelised anchovy and shallots, or smoked salmon and dill) with two parts cultured butter, and season to taste.

For more starters that are bistro-chic and $50-friendly, look to oeuf mayonnaise (boiled eggs draped in homemade mayo and garnished with whole anchovies); pissaladière (caramelised onion tart with olives and anchovies); crudités with French onion dip or fromage fort (a spread made from leftover cheese, garlic and herbs); or shallot tarte tatin. Steak tartare with potato chips is a straightforward crowd-pleaser, but it might push the budget over a bit.

Classic French mains tend to showcase pricier meats and seafood – duck, eye fillet, crab – but there are many lesser-known dishes that do justice to more accessible produce, too. My tarragon- and milk-braised chicken and lentils (recipe below) requires skin-on, bone-in chicken thigh, which usually costs less than your skinned and deboned counterparts, but produces a far more flavourful outcome (serve it with crusty sliced bread for the perfect scarpetta moment). Molly Baz’s chicken au poivre also uses this cut, in fantastic news for peppercorn-sauce fans everywhere. Tomates farcies (a Provençal dish of tomatoes stuffed with meat, herbs and bread crumbs) is excellent in the warmer months, when tomatoes are at their best. Bourride, a fish stew thickened with aioli, is lovely also, with a baguette.

French desserts make the world go round. Usually I allocate 80 per cent of my budget to the savoury dishes and the rest to dessert, but for your bistro-style dinner party dessert deserves at least $20. I am a huge fan of Nigella Lawson’s crepe suzette; I make it with Amaro Montenegro for spiced orange notes. This white chocolate mousse is a staple when I cook for clients as a private chef. Emulsify it in a bain-marie for a texture that’s airy and stretchy like gelato. Silken tofu chocolate mousse is also delicious if you have vegan guests. When stone fruits or apples are in season, make a tarte tatin and serve it with crème fraîche. Or, if you can get your hands on very good berries, try Julia Child’s clafoutis: a handful of ingredients for a near-religious experience.  

Tarragon- and milk-braised chicken with lentils 

Serves 4

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Cooking time: 2 hours

Ingredients

4 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs 1 brown onion, finely diced 4 cloves of garlic, sliced 3 sprigs of fresh tarragon, picked, or 2 tbsp dried tarragon Salt and pepper ½ cup white wine or dry sherry 3 cups of full-cream milk 400g canned lentils 1 tbsp sour cream Handful of parsley, finely chopped Half a lemon to serve (optional)

Method

Season chicken thighs with a generous pinch of salt. In a Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot, render chicken thighs skin-side down on a low heat. Don’t move them at all for the first 10 minutes, or until the skin releases from the pan without resistance. Flip to brown the meat. Keep cooking on both sides until thighs are a deep golden brown. Remove chicken and set aside.

Remove about half of the rendered chicken fat from the pot until around two tablespoons remain. (The sauce will not emulsify properly if there’s too much fat.) Add diced onions to the chicken fat and sweat on medium heat until soft. Add garlic and tarragon, and stir to combine. Season with a pinch of salt and fresh pepper.

Deglaze the pot with the sherry or wine. Vigorously scrape the bottom of the pot to release all the fond (the golden bits of chicken fat and skin left from searing). Add the milk and stir to combine. Return the chicken to the pot and simmer until it’s fork-tender, about 1.5 hours.

Remove the chicken and add lentils and sour cream. Simmer for 15 minutes. Taste for seasoning. Serve chicken nestled in the saucy lentils – either in the pot for guests to serve themselves, or in separate shallow bowls. Finish with a sprinkle of parsley, a squeeze of lemon juice and a fresh cracking of pepper.

Food writer and private chef Becca Wang throws good parties. Supper Partying is the Broadsheet column where she brings her tips, tricks and recipes to the table. Keep up with Becca at @supper.partying.