“Food Must Have Purpose”: Helly Raichura on Culinary Storytelling and Honouring Heritage

Photo: Harry Moody

Honouring ancient technique with inventive flair, the Enter Via Laundry chef creates an ever-changing dining experience. In partnership with Square, we chat to her about fostering a communal atmosphere, broadening diners’ culinary horizons and the history behind her menus.

At the intimate Enter Via Laundry in Carlton North, Helly Raichura invites guests on a colourful expedition through India’s diverse regions, spanning centuries and cultures.

“Every menu we create starts with the story behind it: where it comes from, how it has evolved, and why it’s cooked the way it is today,” she says. “For me, food must have a purpose and a reason. Our work is deeply rooted in history, showcasing dishes that have almost disappeared. I feel an innate responsibility to reintroduce these recipes here in Melbourne, as a way to honour them.”

The chef-restaurateur grew up in Gujarat, India, eating home-style food made from scratch and focused on traditional techniques and seasonal produce. For her, it’s all in the details and specificity. There’s a wealth of local knowledge in each dish, and by pairing regional Indian traditions with local produce, she creates food that is both grounded and exciting.

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Whether inspired by Mumbai’s cafes, nearly-forgotten Parsi recipes, or the vibrant vegetarian feasts of Onam Sadhya festival in Kerala, Enter Via Laundry’s ever-changing menu steers Melburnians toward a more nuanced understanding of Indian cuisine – beyond butter chicken.

This reverence for authenticity defines the restaurant’s approach. And it’s passed on to diners by more than just to food itself. Raichura and her team also take the time to educate diners and share these inspirations, histories and contexts with them throughout the meal.

“From the kitchen to front-of-house, our team shares their own perspective and ideas, to help guests experience the depth of Indian cuisine in a way that feels personal and honest.”

Behind the scenes, technology plays a vital role in enabling her and her team to focus on creativity, service and storytelling. They use Square to streamline operations, allowing more time for what matters most: crafting memorable guest experiences.

“Changing our menu with the seasons brings a renewed energy back, but the transitions can be challenging, especially for a small, family-run team like ours,” Raichura says. “I don’t think I could change things so often and still stay on top of everything in the business if I didn’t have good technology behind it.

“A couple of hours saved during the week means more time to do something creative. Square helps us with that,” she says. “It helps us adapt while we’re fantasising, romanticising, exploring and excavating – you need good tools to make those ideas happen.”

At its heart, Enter Via Laundry is about celebrating Indian cuisine in its purest form. “It’s about taking pride in what Indian food represents – without overcomplicating or reinterpreting, just for the sake of it.”

This article is produced by Broadsheet in partnership with Square.

Produced by Broadsheet in partnership with Square.

Produced by Broadsheet in partnership with Square.
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