Why Are Chefs Putting Albany Rock Oysters on the Menu?

Few cities have a stronger connection to the water than Venice. Spread across more than 100 islands in a lagoon on the Adriatic Sea, the northern Italian city has long celebrated seafood as an intrinsic part of its cuisine – so it makes sense that Il Bacaro, Melbourne’s long-running Venetian diner, relies on seafood throughout its menu.

The approach is classic and straightforward. You’ll find dishes like scallops with white asparagus and pea shoots with a simple tomato consommé, line-caught calamari with balsamic vinegar, and the signature spaghettini with Moreton Bay bugs. And then there are the oysters – the menu’s opening act. When in season, that means Western Australia’s Albany rock oysters. For chef David Dellai, the quality of these briny molluscs speaks for itself.

“Mother Nature has done all the hard work for us, so cooking Albany rock oysters won’t be of any benefit in my opinion,” Dellai says. “It’s very important we serve our Albany rock oysters shucked to order to retain their natural beauty, simply served with an agrodolce-style vinegar and finely diced shallots. It’s my favourite way of serving them, and I could eat them all day long.”

Compared to the more recognised east coast Sydney rock and Pacific oysters, the Albany rock oyster may fly under the radar for some diners – though not for chefs in the know. Grown in the coastal waters of Albany, Western Australia – about 400 kilometres south of Perth – they thrive where cold, clean ocean water mixes with freshwater from surrounding river systems. The result is a distinctive flavour profile shaped by the region’s unique conditions.

“They have a mineral-rich ocean brine flavour, with a mild, crisp and slightly sweet taste – like a salted summer cucumber – and a fresh seaweed umami note,” he says. “They’re compact, plump, and heavy. The meat-to-shell ratio is perfect and the texture is firm and slightly creamy.”

The season for the Albany rock is relatively short, especially compared to the year-round availability of other oysters on the market. They typically appear on menus from late spring through to mid-autumn. When they do, Dellai recommends making the most of it.

“Every rock oyster is unique in its own way, however, when it’s in season, the Albany rock oyster is the pinnacle,” he says. “Most other rock oysters are available all year, so it’s best to enjoy Albany rock oysters when they’re around. If you’re a fan of rock oysters, these will be your favourite once you’ve tried them.”

This article is produced by Broadsheet in partnership with Leeuwin Coast.