Guys don’t necessarily need to be up on the latest trends – timeless style is about nailing the essential elements. So we’ve tapped Vincent Wu from Incu to help with that.
To know if your clothes fit, it’s important to spend some time trying on items with different shapes to understand what works best for you and feels most comfortable. Measure your arm lengths from top of the shoulder to your wrist, neck circumference, waist and know your shoe size for different countries. The items you truly love and appreciate will always look good on you, because you’ll wear them confidently. Always look for good quality clothes. If you don’t feel comfortable in what you wear, it doesn’t matter if it fits well, your posture will give it away.
Shirts come in different cuts and styles; when you’re buying one, ask about how the cut of the shirt is intended to be worn. If you’re wearing a shirt untucked, make sure it doesn’t sit too long because it can look sloppy and make your body look out of proportion.
With dress shirts, make sure when the top button is done up you don’t feel like its choking you. You should still be able to fit a finger between the collar and your neck. The shoulder seam should sit where your shoulders drop, and shirt sleeves should end just on the wrist bone. The buttons should never pull across your chest.
A nice-fitting and well-proportioned jacket can elevate your whole look. Don’t forget, before you put on a jacket think about what you’ll be wearing underneath. In winter, your jacket needs to accommodate varying thicknesses of knitwear, pullovers and hoodies. Always allow just a little more room around the shoulders, back and the armhole. Always check for stress lines across the upper back. The back should have enough room to accommodate layers of clothes underneath.
Don’t go too oversized unless you want to look like you are wearing your dad’s hand-me-downs. Whether it’s for winter or summer, jackets should sit just a little “off” the body, even when buttoned or zipped up. Sleeves should rest on the wrist bone and shouldn’t be too big, and the shoulder should’nt be too tight, but rather sit flush. Suit jackets should cover three quarters of your seat and casual jackets should cover half.
It’s important to know what the pants are for before thinking about fit. It’s just not about loose, straight, slim, tapered or skinny. It’s also about the different elements that determine the fit. The rise (distance from the waistband to the seat seam), the seat (backside) and the break (where the pant leg meets your shoe), whether they are flat front, or pleated from the waistband to give volume to the legs, or whether you prefer front pockets or side pockets.
It is also about mobility; weekday versus weekend. To find the best fit on the waist, it’s good to try on a few different sizes. Try on the size you think you are, as well as one size up and down. Generally speaking, we find that slim, straight pants are the most popular style, and usually fit best on most guys.
The pant hem should finish about two centimetres from touching the ground. With jeans, you can go longer and bunch or roll the cuffs. For slim, tapered chinos and jeans, you can have more fabric around the shoe because they fall differently. Though too much fabric will make most pants look bottom-heavy. If you can, always sit down while trying on pants to make sure they aren’t too tight or uncomfortable. You’ll never wear them if the are.
Sizing is everything. Feet come in widths, too – know if you have a slim or broad foot. Trying to shove a wide foot into a very slim or narrow shoe is not only uncomfortable but also detrimental to your overall physical health. It can cause back pain and blisters. In terms of length, it’s always good to leave about half a finger space to allow for different sock thicknesses. I find I like to have a half-size bigger on sneakers, while I prefer that dressy shoes fit perfectly.