12 To Try: The Ultimate Guide to Engagement Ring Cuts, Styles and Settings

An engagement ring is one of the most important pieces of jewellery someone can choose to wear. A marker of love, the band wrapped around one’s ring finger is a physical embodiment of commitment. So how do you go about picking such a ring?

There are many considerations when it comes to engagement rings, with different histories, significances and styles attached to stones, materials and cuts. Understanding these nuances can help you pick what engagement ring might suit you or your partner best.

To help cut through the noise, we’ve enlisted the help of Cushla Whiting, co-founder of her eponymous jewellery label. Here she breaks down the visual identities and meanings of the most popular engagement ring settings and stone cuts, and what factors you might need to consider.

Engagement ring settings

Solitaire engagement rings

According to Whiting, the solitaire is the “most minimal and honest of all engagement ring settings”. Solitaires are made to highlight the centre stone. Without anywhere to hide, the quality of the gemstone and the ring’s craftsmanship and finishing details are on full show. Whiting recommends considering claw shape, band profile and the ring’s overall proportion, as these small changes can change the character of the piece. “Today, a solitaire is no longer limited to a diamond on a fine band; we’re seeing a move towards more bold, sculptural and distinctive interpretations that allow the ring to stand confidently on its own.”

Halo engagement rings

As the name suggests, halo engagement rings feature a halo of smaller diamonds that surrounds the centre stone. This, Whiting says, “creates additional sparkle and visual presence, making the stone appear larger without increasing the carat weight”. She notes that the micro-claw halos that trended in the 2000s have decreased in popularity, and that antique-inspired clusters and bezel-set halo designs are a fresh, modern take on the setting.

Hidden halo engagement rings

While a halo engagement ring’s clustered diamonds can be viewed from above, a hidden halo engagement ring has a row of small diamonds that are set beneath the centre stone. This makes them invisible from above and can only be seen from a side view. “The result is a ring that appears clean and minimal from the top while offering a subtle surprise in profile. It’s a detail that appeals to those who appreciate quiet luxury and thoughtful craftsmanship, and is often incorporated as a bespoke element rather than a defining style,” Whiting says.

Bezel engagement rings

A bezel-set engagement ring encases the centre stone with a continuous rim of metal, rather than claws. It’s one of the most secure setting styles, Whiting says. “It has a clean, architectural quality, with a modern simplicity that suits both everyday wear and active lifestyles,” she says. Alternatively, a semi-bezel setting only covers some of the stone, allowing more visibility of its side profile.

Trilogy engagement rings

“Traditionally representing the past, present and future, the trilogy setting offers both symbolism and strong visual impact,” Whiting says. The trio of stones usually provides a greater surface area on the finger and appears visually bigger than a single stone. “While round brilliant side stones are classic, alternative cuts such as bullets, shields, half-moons or antique diamonds create a more distinctive silhouette.”

Toi et moi engagement rings

French for “you and me”, the toi et moi setting features two side-by-side gemstones. “The style lends itself beautifully to combining different cuts, colours or gemstone types, allowing each stone to represent an individual within the relationship,” Whiting says, adding that couples should consider how the asymmetrical silhouette will sit alongside a wedding band.

Diamond and gemstone cuts

Round brilliant cut

The round brilliant cut is the most popular diamond cut; a timeless choice that transcends trends. “With 58 facets designed for maximum light return, it delivers exceptional sparkle from every angle. Its symmetry makes it endlessly versatile, suiting any setting or hand shape,” Whiting says.

Oval cut

An oval cut is elegant and elongated, a popular choice for its ability to flatter the finger, while appearing larger than its carat weight. “One thing to look out for is the ‘bow tie effect’ – a subtle shadow that can appear across the centre of the stone due to light loss. This is a natural characteristic of the shape, though its visibility varies significantly depending on the quality of the cut,” Whiting says.

Pear cut

“Romantic and distinctive, the pear cut combines brilliance with a teardrop silhouette that naturally elongates the hand. It’s typically worn with the point toward the fingertip for the most flattering effect,” Whiting says. Considerations for pear cuts include prioritising cut quality to minimise bow-tie-ing and ensuring the pointed tip is secured with a protected claw for daily wear.

Marquise cut

“Bold and dramatic, the marquise cut is one of the most elongating shapes, often appearing very large for its carat weight. Its pointed ends and stretched silhouette make it striking on the hand,” Whiting says. Look out for careful setting on these pieces, as the points require extra care for durability. Cut quality also needs to be taken into consideration to minimise the bow tie effect.

Cushion cut

A cushion cut is loved for its duality; the romantic cut feels both vintage-inspired and modern, making it a well-loved favourite. “There are several styles of modern cushion cuts, and the differences can be significant: cushion brilliant or ‘crushed ice’ cushions are often cut deep, with excess weight hidden in the pavilion, which can reduce light performance and make the diamond appear smaller than its carat weight suggests. By contrast, modified cushion brilliants are cut more like a round brilliant beneath the surface. They have larger facets and often appear larger and brighter,” Whiting says.

Emerald cut

For those who want something more unexpected, emerald-cut diamonds are prized for their rectangular shape and elegant lines. “Instead of sparkle, it offers a more restrained, hall-of-mirrors-like reflection. Its wide, open facets mean clarity is more visible to the eye than in other cuts, so generally a higher clarity grade is required,” Whiting says.