Diverse, Identifiable and Innovative: Five Industry Insiders Reflect on What Makes Melbourne Fashion Tick

This year represents a milestone in Australian fashion as Melbourne Fashion Week – now the longest-running consumer fashion event in the country – celebrates 30 years. Over three decades Melbourne’s fashion scene has undergone some big changes in ethos, technology, representation and design.

Here, five iconic Australian designers, each with deep connections to M/FW, look back over their careers, reflect on how the industry has evolved and share what Melbourne fashion means to them.

If I had to describe Melbourne fashion in one word it would be identifiable.
My proudest achievement as a designer is being a strong, self-funded business for 20 years, as well as forging a path in more environmentally responsible practices and products.
One of the biggest changes I’ve noticed in the industry is growing awareness of the industry’s environmental impact and an awakening to the subsequent responsibility. Another huge change since Elk was founded in 2004 has been social media and how it’s allowed brands to extend their reach and meet new audiences.
If I could go back in time and give my younger self some advice, it would be to be patient. I have an insatiable drive to make everything happen yesterday, which is so unrealistic. I’ve learnt it’s okay to not have everything “sorted”.
The most treasured item in my wardrobe is a simple sheer black cotton and silk shirt we made 10 years ago. We reissued the same shirt this year for our 20th anniversary – it’s a reminder that classic, good quality design stands the test of time and that something so simple can be valued.
My favourite place to shop in Melbourne is Lygon Street, Carlton. The village vibe is always bustling, and the mix of food, bars, fashion and lifestyle stores (and the best bookshop), plus the cultural influence and indie cinema, makes for a happy day out.
One of my favourite local brands is Alpha 60 – it’s dotted throughout my wardrobe. They continue to push their design philosophy while retaining a unique aesthetic. But there are so many incredible new designers coming out of Melbourne – I especially love the artistry and creativity of Amy Lawrance. Her pleating, drapery and form work is so clever and intensely unique.

If I had to describe Melbourne fashion in one word it would be diverse.
One of the biggest changes we’ve noticed in the industry is the decline of boutique, independent multi-branded stores, especially since we started out in 2003.
Our proudest achievement as a brand is seeing Kloke in the wild on our customers and realising how clothing can make people feel. We also really value our longstanding relationship with local and international makers, as well as the consistent growth of Kloke in the international market thanks to the strength of our relationship with our agent in Japan.
If we could go back in time and give our younger selves some advice, it would be to understand the velocity of change.
The most treasured item in Amy’s wardrobe is an old leather trench that her dad invested in.
Our favourite place to shop in Melbourne is Fitzroy – it’s where we began.
One of our favourite local labels is Martin Grant – a heritage brand that captures Melbourne’s essence.

If I had to describe Melbourne fashion in one word it would be diverse.
One of the biggest changes I’ve noticed in the industry is that consumers are now far more informed than when I started in 2005. Because of this, the polarity between fast fashion and sustainably produced fashion is increasing, with a lot of wolves dressed up in sheep’s clothing, parading as sustainable.
My proudest achievement as a designer is having built a steady business in a very unpredictable industry.
If I could go back in time and give my younger self some advice, it would be to remember to never take opportunities for granted. The most treasured item in my wardrobe is is a dress by Toni Maticevski that he made from discarded garments from the 17th century. He was invited by my university to reimagine something new from the old, and I was gifted the piece. There’s also a vintage Christian Dior taffeta black cape that I found at a flea market in Paris.
My favourite place to shop in Melbourne is Marais – it’s very aspirational.
One of my favourite local brands is Maticevski. I also really like streetwear brand Verner.

If I had to describe Melbourne fashion in one word it would be diverse.
One of the biggest changes I’ve noticed in the industry is digital media. That’s been a major shift since I first started working on my brand in 2015.
My proudest achievement as a designer is being able to support Australian businesses. Every component of Mariam Seddiq is made in Australia, which creates jobs and opportunities here.
If I could go back in time and give my younger self some advice, it would be to enter the industry earlier and focus on practical experience rather than spending excessive time studying. Much of the theoretical knowledge from academia proved less applicable in real-world scenarios. Also, having a mentor from the start would have been invaluable in guiding me through the many questions and challenges I had to tackle on my own.
One trend I regret participating in is the tattoo stretch choker. I usually avoid trend-driven pieces, but I definitely got sucked in when I was a teen.
The most treasured item in my wardrobe is my late father’s cufflinks and a crisp white shirt.
My favourite places to shop in Melbourne are Dot Comme, Martin Fella, Paris 99 and Retrostar. I’m drawn to these places not only for the distinctive architecture but also their exceptional curation of both vintage and contemporary items. I also enjoy shopping on High Street in Armadale for its vibrant atmosphere – I’m always on the lookout for a potential location to establish a Mariam Seddiq presence on this dynamic street.

If I had to describe Melbourne fashion in one word it would be innovative. I love how Melburnians experiment and get creative with their style.
One of the biggest changes I’ve noticed in the industry is local labels finally having a moment on the global stage – that’s a really positive change.
My proudest achievement as a designer is hard to pick. We’ve had some incredible moments as a brand, from our first showing at New York Fashion Week in 2014, to our recent collaboration with Qantas, to winning Designer of the Year at the 2023 Marie Claire Women of the Year awards, and then attending Cannes Film Festival earlier this year.
If I could go back in time and give my younger self some advice, it would be to always trust your gut. This is something that was passed on to me, and it always comes back to me when things get a little challenging and I need that perspective.
My favourite places to shop in Melbourne are Emporium and Chadstone – you can find anything you need. But I also love Armadale. It’s a quaint shopping district that’s always fun to explore.
One of my favourite local brands is Maticevski. I also love what Henne and Lana Wilkinson are doing with their collections – they’re both girlfriends of mine.

This article is produced by Broadsheet in partnership with Melbourne Fashion Week.