“A Kind of Rebirth”: Dion Lee on His New Fashion Label, Haelo

Like a phoenix rising from the ashes, Dion Lee has launched his new fashion label, Haelo. Lee’s eponymous label experienced a tumultuous last few years – last year, Cue Clothing Company (which owned the majority share of the company) placed Dion Lee into voluntary administration. Then, earlier this year, the label was sold to US clothing retailer Revolve for reportedly under $1 million. 

Now, the 40-year-old Sydney-born designer is starting afresh. He’s building a new clothing, accessories and footwear brand, away from the namesake label he launched back in 2009. 

“It is a refreshing experience to design for another brand and separate the identity from my personal taste and perspective,” Lee says. “It has been fun and exciting to challenge the way I have worked previously and be more playful in how the brand communicates.”

If you think this label is a resurrection of his previous one, you’re not entirely wrong. “The idea for Haelo came from thinking about an ‘afterlife’ for my previous brand – a kind of rebirth in a new form. I wanted to build a world that runs parallel to what came before, but with a softer, more ethereal tone that contrasts against darker, almost gothic references.”

The name Haelo is a stylisation of “halo”. “The angel is a familiar symbol in fashion, but what drew me in was the vast universe of references it opens up — from mythology and art to music, film, video games and broader popular culture.”

It’s fitting that Haelo’s headquarters are based in Los Angeles, the city of angels. Dion Lee always played with the idea of fantasy, but with Haelo he’s wholeheartedly embracing it.

Lee is the creative director for Haelo. On first inspection, it’s clear he’s pulled roots, inspiration and form from his original fashion project. Both exude sensual coolness, femininity with edge and an affinity for club culture. But Haelo is softer than Dion Lee, his signature boning and corseting held to a minimum here.

“While there will naturally be some crossover in the customer, I hope that Haelo will speak to a new audience as well, one drawn to its softer energy and distinct point of view.”

Haelo has released 26 pieces in its first drop, currently exclusive to purchase on Revolve. It’s the first of four annual connections. Lee has shirked traditional wholesale and runway structures, instead, operating with a direct-to-consumer model. “Selling directly to the customer creates room to build more value into the product itself, allowing the quality of fabrication and manufacturing to remain elevated.”

“I am exploring a new format of creating chapters for each collection, outside of the traditional runway or look-book format,” he says, teasing that Haelo is planning to release future collections through music videos in collaboration with musicians. Previous musicians who’ve worn Lee’s designs include the likes of Taylor Swift, Kylie Minogue, Dua Lipa, Rosalia, Camila Cabello, Ice Spice, Solange and Chlöe Bailey.

Best-sellers, according to the online clothing retailer, include its Banana Twist flare jean, a pair of barrel-leg jeans made from recycled indigo denim, its Collage corset dress, a soft, body-con dress with lace detailing, and its Cinch Back trucker jacket, a sculptural outer-layer made from the same material as its Banana Twist jean counterpart. 

Lee’s favourite piece? The Wrap Flight bomber. “It is one of the pieces that has found its way into my own wardrobe. It also seems to be one of the most requested pieces and I believe will sell out very soon!”

Lee has sat where not many have before him – in the circle of revered Australian fashion designers who have “made it”. We’ll be paying close attention to what comes next.