The Five Suits in Film That Changed Menswear Forever

A character’s wardrobe is an extension of their story – a crumpled tee or crisp linen button-down can say just as much, or maybe more, than a line of dialogue. Sartorial decisions can be the final piece of a world-building puzzle, or impact the way audiences dress outside of movies, too.

Designer Giorgio Armani’s influence on cinema spans decades, through the costumes that helped define some of film’s most memorable characters. And the luxury label has just launched a heady new male fragrance line, I Will: the final project that Armani signed off on before his passing, grounded in ideas of determination and the power of will.

To celebrate the enduring power of a great screen suit, here are five that turned their wearers into style icons.

Julian Kaye (Richard Gere) in American Gigolo (1980)

The look: elegant, masculine tailoring that pioneered men’s fashion

American Gigolo was the beginning of Armani’s foray into Hollywood, where he famously dressed Richard Gere as cool, charming male escort Julian Kaye. The film proved career-defining for both Gere and Armani, with its wardrobe helping redefine modern menswear. Designers swapped the harsh cuts and tones of the ’70s for relaxed silhouettes, softer colours and effortless styling, channelling Kaye’s elegant outfits. What made the suits memorable was how Kaye wore them: jacket thrown over one shoulder, shirt buttons left undone and an effortless confidence that made tailoring feel relaxed rather than rigid.

The cast of The Untouchables (1987)

The look: charming 1930s-inspired power suits

The Untouchables cast remains some of cinema’s best-dressed gangsters, in full vintage-style Armani tailoring. Giorgio blended 1930s Prohibition-era Chicago style with his own relaxed tailoring and, like any good costume, the suit enhanced the character. There was Eliot Ness (Kevin Costner), a clean-cut law enforcement officer, who wore sharp three-piece grey suits and trenches. Jim Malone (Sean Connery) was rugged and relaxed, in corduroy and a newsboy cap. But Al Capone (Robert De Niro) ultimately stole the spotlight in an all-white linen suit – making him every bit the untouchable kingpin.

Dickie Greenleaf (Jude Law) in The Talented Mr. Ripley (1999)

The look: casual, sun-drenched Riviera chic

Dickie Greenleaf’s relaxed, pastel-toned outfits might be one reason why Tom Ripley (and audiences to this day) became so obsessed with the character. He’s magnetic, carefree and reeks of privilege, and his suits do the same. Linen tailoring, polos, penny loafers and knitwear are all staples in Greenleaf’s wardrobe, capturing the ease of an affluent 1950s Italian summer. The costume department wasn’t afraid to accessorise, either. Accessories complete the picture: a pinkie ring, gold cufflinks, mesh-bracelet watch and his signature pork pie hat.

Jay Gatsby (Leonardo DiCaprio) in The Great Gatsby (2013)

The look: loud, flamboyant 1920s menswear crafted by Brooks Brothers

For Baz Luhrmann’s lavish adaptation, Brooks Brothers created an expansive wardrobe that reimagined Jazz Age tailoring for the screen. Three-piece suits in soft pinks, creams and sky blues, impeccably cut tuxedos, silk pocket squares and polished Oxford shoes all captured the extravagance of the Roaring Twenties. Every look was meticulously styled, reinforcing Gatsby’s carefully curated image of effortless wealth and old-world sophistication.

James Bond (Daniel Craig) in Skyfall (2012)

The look: Tom Ford’s narrow Prince-of-Wales check suit

After experimenting with different tailors, Daniel Craig’s Bond found his definitive look with Tom Ford, who dressed the spy from Quantum of Solace onwards. The designs were so notable, they influenced runways, red carpets and street style throughout the 2010s. The silhouette was super-slim, tight-fitting and athletic, with narrow shoulders and a short jacket length. Consistently paired with Tom Ford sunglasses, Omega watches and a pressed white shirt, the outfits were as slick and cool as the ruthless secret agent who wore them.

This article was produced by Broadsheet in partnership with Armani Beauty.