David Vitale

The Australian spirits industry is at a critical point in its history. We have spirits and liqueurs in every category winning the respect of international judges, reflected by the overflowing trophy cabinets at most Australian craft distilleries.

Yet, as an industry, we’re doing it as hard as we ever have. Cost-of-living pressures, an ever-growing spirits excise tax, and a response from our international colleagues to their own existential threats have all put immense pressure on Australian distilleries.

And yet, I’m as excited for our industry’s future as I’ve ever been. Why? Well, to put it simply, nothing tastes like Australia. It’s in the sugar and molasses we use to produce rum. It’s in our native botanicals and a modern approach to gin-making that reflects terroir in a way legacy gin never did. And of course, it’s in the grains we use to create our world-beating whiskies.

These products have clearly made an impact on judges around the world. But more importantly, they have authentic stories behind them, which give us a reason to exist on every backbar in the world.

I’ve just returned from living in the United States for five years and I can tell you first-hand these stories resonate and excite people in a way that awards don’t. But I can also say we have an awareness challenge to overcome. And it’s not just in the States – it’s at home, too.

If we’re going to survive and thrive as an industry, we need to move beyond thinking of ourselves as merely “award-winning” and “craft”. Because, while important, these labels sell short the amazing work our industry has done to stand out in a sea of international spirits that lean on history and heritage over flavour and innovation.

This might be controversial, but there’s nothing “wrong” with international spirits that the Australian industry is going to be “better” at. International distilleries do a bloody good job of making their spirits and getting people to fall in love with them. But telling those uniquely Australian stories about our products is how we can win at home and abroad.

Think Four Pillars Bloody Shiraz or Never Never Oyster-Shell Gin. Think native grains or local grain varieties long forgotten in other parts of the world, and whiskies aged in locally sourced wine barrels. These are all stories only we can tell, and you taste the difference. A difference that makes an interesting drink.

In a 2024 report on the most valuable wine brands in the world, four of the top 10 were Australian. Forty years ago, there was no way we could have ever imagined that Aussie wines could be as relevant to drinkers around the world as French, Italian and Spanish ones. And yet here we are, punching well above our weight on the world stage.

Success has many parents, but results like this are partly due to consistent and coordinated efforts by governments to support the Aussie wine industry. Why? I could say it’s to scoop more votes in regional areas. But I’d like to give our politicians the benefit of the doubt and think they saw an opportunity to add value, to create jobs, and to support an industry with the potential to take on the world. Because again, nothing tastes like Australia.

I see no reason why in less than forty years Australian spirits can’t occupy four of the top 10 most valuable spirits brands in the world. But it starts at home, it starts with you supporting Australian spirits and all of us reminding our politicians that we’ve done this before, and that the Australian spirits industry needs their support.

If you’re curious about Australian spirits but haven’t tried one yet – give them a go. There’s nothing wrong with 25-year-old Scotch (I love it), but we can make whisky here that Scotland, Ireland or America can’t. That’s exciting, and a good enough reason to choose one over the other at the bar.

To those who are supporting local distilleries – keep serving, drinking and sharing these spirits and liqueurs with friends. Tell them why you love Aussie gin, rum or whisky. We need to call out why Aussie spirits are different and have permission to exist in venues and bottle shops around the world. Awards aren’t going to do all the work for us.