Tzaki, which means fireplace, is a fitting name for the debut venue from Alex Xinis (former head chef at The Press Club and Hellenic Republic ). His menus focus on woodfire cooking, presenting Athenian specialties “in a Melbourne way”.

On the surface it’s a teeny-tiny wine bar, with just 16 seats inside. But roll past in the morning and you’ll see the doors are open for coffee and woodfire vanilla cream bougatsa (custard pie with phyllo pastry) and savoury lagana flatbreads with tirokafteri (a feta, capsicum and olive oil spread).

Post up at the L-shaped bar at dinner for Greek wines and a good bit of theatre, as chefs pull dishes like hung, dried and wood-roasted Australian octopus from the roaring oven. The menu changes almost every week, but expect snacks and veggie dishes in the mix, such as slow-cooked chickpeas, taramasalata and potatoes with lemon and oregano.