Neptune is by Nic Coulter ( Young Hearts ) and Simon Blacher ( Hanoi Hannah, Saigon Sally and Tokyo Tina ) and brothers Dave and Michael Parker ( Pastuso and San Telmo ).

The playful menu honours seafood in all its forms. Bring your crew and order share-friendly plates of prawn cocktails, octopus carpaccio, salmon tataki and roasted sardines. Or, tuck into a whole Murray cod grilled with soubise sauce and cavolo nero.

The other highlight is the menu’s grilled section, which features protein-heavy mains like rump steak, a whole chicken or a whole fish. Slather them with your choice of condiment (like zhoug, horseradish cream or pepper sauce) and a side (think classic fries or leafy greens). Add a potato salad or bright panzanella for freshness. As for dessert, there’s a standout lemon tart with ruby grapefruit that every fork at the table might dive into.

As for drinks, ask the team to suggest a drop from the tight yet considered wine list – which spans Australia, New Zealand, Germany, Italy, France and beyond. And you might expect harder-to-find varieties like furmint, a white wine from north-eastern Hungary.

The two-storey, 140-seat interior is low-lit and moody, with warm lighting, dark timber furniture and black ceilings that contrast with exposed-brick walls.

There’s footpath seating, and various areas to settle into for the night: bar stools, tables and chairs, banquettes and a lounge by a fireplace. The team will even keep your un-finished alcohol in a whisky locker upstairs: buy a bottle and Neptune will keep it safe until your next visit.