It’s surrounded by the remains of mid-century Thornbury, a time when the suburb was an Italian stronghold. But chef Michael Slade's (ex- La Luna Bistro ) Northern Git represents a new order.

Slade was born in Yorkshire and he brings the dishes of his youth to this buzzing bar and restaurant. It also happens to be his first foray into ownership, and he's done a super job. A dreary urban mural dominates the space and nods to the venue’s title, an insult commonly levelled at English people from the northern counties.

The hearty menu begins with indulgent bar snacks such as pork crackling and blue cheese chicken wings, before moving on to roast duck with apple and red cabbage; fish and chips; and a strong selection of grass-fed, house-aged beef. Offal gets an occasional look in, too. The menu isn’t strictly English, but everything feels touched by the English dedication to food that comforts.

If you prefer your comfort in liquid form there's standing room and stools at the polished timber bar, behind which there is a selection of whiskies and British and Australian craft beer. Firkin Fridays enlighten patrons about the thrills of unpasteurised ale drawn from old-fashioned barrels, while every Sunday there’s a roast.