By day, Joseph Rahme runs Juju’s Deli, a sandwich shop with locations in Thornbury and South Melbourne. By night, he swaps sangas for hearty plates at his Thornbury restaurant, Isme.

Originally located in the backstreets of Fitzroy, the diner’s menu takes cues from Rahme’s Lebanese roots and the broader West Asia region, centred around meze (small plates) and proteins cooked over coal and wood.

Dips like house-made hummus, labneh, baba ghanoush and tarator (made from ground almonds) are staples, served alongside barbequed Lebanese mountain bread or spun into dishes like the prawn fatteh – prawns paired with garlic herb yoghurt and crispy pita shards. The HSP bite, a playful spin on the takeaway favourite, is also a highlight. Finish with baklava-inspired cheesecake laced with pistachio and orange blossom for dessert.

The wine list leans heavily on Lebanese producers, while cocktails incorporate regional ingredients like rose water syrup and fig jam. And like in many Middle Eastern homes, the coffee is always brewing.