Wolf and Swill

Time seems less relevant at Wolf and Swill. Even when the sun’s high and the trestles on the footpath are full, the bar has something of a clandestine, after-hours feel. A mirror ball twirls lazily overhead, throwing patterns onto Venetian blinds. Disco records run laps behind the bar, and a woodfired pizza oven glows reassuringly in the back.

Two of the bar’s three owners – Jasper Hood and Ioreth Tudor – have spent years cooking pizza. Hood worked at I Carusi in its heyday, while Tudor co-founded several pizzerias, most notably Lazerpig and A Boy Named Sue, where third owner Ben Burgess was a regular.

The pizzas are basically Neapolitan, but go rogue with the toppings. The bases are also less floppy than is traditional.

Pizzas come in one size – the kind that seems ambitious when you’re dead sober but just right after one or two pints. One has confit garlic, sous-vide garlic, honey, buffalo mozzarella and rosemary. Another comes topped with pork and fennel sausage, bechamel, buttered leeks, and washed rind cheese. A fancy Hawaiian pairs ham hock with pickled pineapple.

Eight taps pour a truly diverse set of beers. There has been Sapporo lager, Coopers pale ale, Mr Banks’s Got Milk nitro porter and Boatrocker’s Jungle Jive sour IPA. Wines are minimal intervention and slightly natural, without going too left of centre. Expect bottles from Jamsheed, SC Pannell and Crittenden Estate.

Updated: April 24th, 2019

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