Compared with the CBD’s milieu of rooftop bars, the outlook at Gigi (above Thornbury’s relocated Umberto Espresso Bar) is less shiny skyscrapers and more sweeping suburbia.

This tiny rooftop is only accessible via Umberto’s dining room, which means you’re unlikely to stumble upon it. But it’s well worth seeking out. Golden hour up here is quite spectacular, so snag a table in the late arvo (it’s walk-ins only) and settle in to watch the sunset over the lush surrounding treetops.

To drink, you might start with a grapefruit house spritz, then move on to the Pina Colada Punch (a tropical mix of reposado and smoked-pineapple tequila, Montenegro, pineapple, coconut and lime). There’s also vino from local producers alongside imported drops from Italy and France, plus a dedicated section for low and nonalc cocktails.

Snacks-wise, simple but satisfying is the formula. Past highlights include ricotta-filled zucchini flowers, marinated sardine skewers and fried ’nduja soldiers with three cheeses. If you’re ravenous, head downstairs to Umberto for a bowl of orecchiette with broccoli and anchovies.