Chef Narit Kimsat has worked in a string of Melbourne venues, including the now-closed Earth Angels , La Pinta , Capitano and Clover. But he always wanted to open a small takeaway spot with a singular focus.

That place is Yang Thai, and that focus is charcoal chicken. Melbourne might be replete with chicken shops, but many of them sell dry birds. Kimsat combats that by salt-brining his chickens for five hours, then marinating them overnight in black pepper and turmeric sauce before cooking them over charcoal and finishing them in the oven.

Every day they’re served as lunch packs with a quarter chicken, sticky rice, som tum (shredded green papaya salad, pounded to order in a large Thai mortar and pestle), and a punchy green sauce made with coriander, green chilli and lime. Diners can also order half or whole chickens, plus chips served with sweet-and-sour tamarind ketchup – Kimsat’s nod to classic Aussie chicken shops. The menu also includes vegan options.