Ricardo Garcia Flores’s restaurant El Columpio in Fitzroy serves some of Melbourne’s best Mexican food. His second location, this time in St Kilda, does too. The unassuming kiosk has panoramic views of St Kilda beach and gets plenty of sunshine. Pull up a chair.

The takeaway-focused spot is all about seafood, and takes inspiration from Mexico City’s hottest marisquerias. There’s the torre de mariscos seafood tower, which sees a mix of cooked and raw seafood combined with piquin and chiltepin chillies, arrive in a steel tube that’s removed tableside – like the dramatic first unveiling of a fresh game of Jenga. The mar y tierra (sea and land) taco combines porterhouse steak with prawns on a taco loaded with Oaxacan cheese.

Some of El Columpio’s best-known dishes include steak for breakfast and pozole (a Mexican soup). But only a handful of bestsellers, like the suadero beef brisket tacos, have come down from the Fitzroy mothership.