Ricardo Garcia Flores’s restaurant El Columpio in Fitzroy serves some of Melbourne’s best Mexican food. His second location, this time in St Kilda, does too. But this one focuses almost exclusively on seafood. Particularly Sinaloan style mariscos (which literally means shellfish but is used to describe all seafood in Mexico).

Some of El Columpio’s best-known dishes include steak for breakfast and pozole (a Mexican soup). But only a handful of bestsellers, like the suadero beef brisket tacos, have come down from the Fitzroy mothership.

The takeaway-focused El Columpio St Kilda is all about seafood. There’s the torre de mariscos seafood tower, which sees a mix of cooked and raw seafood combined with piquin and chiltepin chillies, arrive in a steel tube that’s removed tableside – like the dramatic first unveiling of a fresh game of Jenga. The mar y tierra (sea and land) taco combines porterhouse steak with prawns on a taco loaded with Oaxacan cheese.

The burrito stars beans cooked in Garcia Flores’s lard – which he says has been cooking continuously for over 18 months – as well as a flour tortilla and fresh totopos (tortilla chips). There’s be plenty of filling options, but seafood including fish and calamari will be a big focus.