DOC, known for its buffalo mozzarella-topped pizzas, has additional locations in Southbank, Mornington and even Sydney’s Surry Hills. The Carlton flagship has been serving Italian food for decades.

While classic dishes like margherita pizza and DOC’s tiramisu hold their place, the St Kilda menu also features secondi, contorni and seasonal seafood that pays tribute to Italian coastlines. Think Tasmanian Pacific oysters, Spring Creek barramundi or Skull Island prawns.

The pasta list focuses on lesser-common shapes. There might be ruffled campanelle (with duck ragu and truffle Reggiano foam) and house-made bucatini (served tossed with Goolwa pippies, garlic, chilli, miso and nori Del Bocia butter and finished with pangrattato).

While the Aperol Spritz and Negroni stand their ground, another cocktail to try is the DOC Sgroppino – somewhere between a dessert and a drink, with lemon sorbet, prosecco and vodka. The wine list is mostly Italian.

The palette is calm and neutral. Pops of green and red nod to the Italian flag – with tomato-red detailing on the coffee machine and pizza sign. The kitchen is custom-built to suit the pizza-focused menu, with a stone-base pizza oven. There are olive banquettes where diners who haven’t opted for the alfresco terrace overlooking the bay or a seat at the bar, can sit.