Yagiz takes traditional elements of Turkish cuisine and makes them approachable, with a menu of unfussy dishes based on just a few ingredients treated well.

The mussels stuffed with rice and currants is a standout. There’s also charcoal-cooked calamari doused with sujuk butter, and hand-minced lamb shish served with charred eggplant. The half charcoal chicken with chickpeas is one of the restaurant’s larger plates, and for dessert it might be flaky, filo-wrapped baklava with walnut, sherbert and maras-style ice cream.

The wine list does an honourable job of shining a light on Turkish wines. Drops from Ankara to Gallipoli are listed alongside Italian, New Zealand and Australian wines – the vast majority of which are available by the glass.

The space is a renovated former office. Diners are welcomed into a casual bar area up front before moving into a more formal dining area where a 22-seat table is at the centre of the space. Concrete floors meet tan seating and banquettes decorated with colourful Turkish-style cushions. A private dining room is also available.

Yagiz is chef Murat Ovaz grandfather’s name. The patriarch is honoured with a portrait by Australian-based street artist Robert Scholton, which watches over diners. And when it’s time for the cheque, your bill arrives in a replica of Yagiz’s passport, which even has his real date and place of birth on it.