Austro

Features

On the walls of the huge, double-fronted former warehouse that houses this bakery there are murals of the alpine town of Hallstatt, one of co-owner and pastry chef’ Sally Roxon’s favourite towns to visit in Austria with her husband and business partner, Austrian-born Christian Gattermayr. Aesthetically, this is the extent of the Austrian influence. The rest of the space restrained: sleek, with azure and pastel blues and polished concrete throughout.

The cabinet offering of cakes and sandwiches nods to centuries-old Central European recipes, with a few updates. Roxon has seen tastes change and is always trying to adapt, within reason. She isn’t serving muffins, but you can get poppy seed kugel, a fist-sized crumbly bundt cake teeming with poppy seeds and topped with a simple lemon glaze.

The Bee Sting, or Bienenstich, has layers of honey and vanilla custard between two slabs of brioche. It’s topped with honey-toffeed almonds. There’s also Linzertorte, a latticed tart with a hazelnut frangipane and cherry filling, and Sachertorte, a rich, layered chocolate cake with apricot jam and chocolate ganache.”

On the savoury side of the counter are pretzels served with cured meats and pickles; beef and masala pies; chicken, chard and leek pies; and open and closed sandwiches.

There’s also a shakshuka croissant; spiced tomato stew is baked into a house-made croissant and topped with an egg. It’s not Austrian, but it’s one of Roxon’s favourites.

Updated: July 26th, 2018

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