After formative years at Hanabishi, Koko and Kisume, and after founding Ishizuka on Bourke Street, Chiba-born chef Tomotaka Ishizuka has come full circle to an unassuming alley in South Melbourne.

At Tomo-An, which Ishizuka opened after he stepped away from his namesake restaurant, the chef offers his tribute to Kaga-style kaiseki – a multi-course meal with a distinct style from Ishikawa that emphasises harmony with nature, while blending the traditions of the Japanese tea ceremony.

Each evening unfolds through 13 technical, classical courses, featuring entrees, soups, sashimi, grilled and simmered dishes, deep-fried morsels, sushi and sweets. A signature is the jibuni-style duck breast – slow-cooked until tender in glossy, thickened soy-dashi broth. There’s a modern riff on sukiyaki (hotpot) Wagyu beef, served with a delicate foamy egg sauce, and compote plum flown in from Wakayama, paired with snowy white ginger sorbet.

To watch Ishizuka cook is to witness an artist at the top of their game. A seat at the counter means a front-row ticket to a show where the chef stems, deep-fries, pan-fries, plates dishes, whisks green tea, and shapes minced-chicken onigiri fresh from the earthen donabe pot. 

The saké list is anchored in Ishikawa with bottles from Kikuhime and Tedorigawa, and extends to cult labels like Juyondai from Yamagata.

The room feels like a calm golden cocoon, with ikebana (Japanese flower arrangements) from local florists hidden everywhere, soft light against ochre walls and a textured moon glowing above the counter. Each ceramic and piece of cutlery is deliberate and balanced.