Greek food in Greece is more diverse than what we see in Melbourne. At Aegli, chef Ioannis Kasidokostas (behind Greek diner Sowl in Carnegie) wants to broaden the city’s understanding of the cuisine.

Set in the old Lume site, the restaurant reimagines traditional dishes while staying true to the core flavours. You’ll find dishes like lobster hilopites (a type of pasta) or a hulking wedge of baked anthotyros cheese paired with sour cherries and capers.

Then there’s manti, small beef and mutton dumplings served with brown butter, chilli, kefir and salted aged cheese. Another standout is youvarlakia, beef or pork meatballs often served in avgolemono (egg and lemon sauce). At Aegli, the meatballs are made from the day’s catch of fish or shellfish.

Wine, beer and spirits come from Australia and Greece and, in traditional Greek fashion, the coffee machine is kept running until late.