It doesn't feel quite right to call The Kettle Black a cafe. Sure, it still serves the classics, but it aims for something more considered and refined than anything we've previously experienced prior to lunch – much like its siblings Top Paddock and Higher Ground, also owned by The Darling Group.

With dishes such as Instagrammable blueberry and ricotta hotcakes; or Sicillian-style scrambled eggs with salami spread, stracciatella, caper, sorrel, paprika chilli oil and royal blue potato chips; it feels more appropriate to think of The Kettle Black as a sleek breakfast restaurant.

But despite the kitchen’s high aspirations, the vibe remains relaxed. It's an idea reinforced by the old-timey panorama of St Andrews at the entrance, as well as the venue's birch-wood stools, clusters of pot plants and a handsome marble bar. Green-accented chairs and tiles complete the seamless design by Studio You Me.

For espresso, there's a custom Darling Blend or a rotating single-origin. On good days, a coffee cart sits out the front to stop takeaway orders flooding in and out of striking South Melbourne facade.