Compa has closed and is now Il Melograno Fitzroy.
Carl Foderá and Marco Enea opened their first gelataria – Il Melograno in Westgarth – in 2015. Foderá heads the front end of the business while Enea guards his family recipes.
Enea’s family has owned and operated La Delizia, one of the most highly regarded gelatarias in Palermo, Sicily, for more than 25 years. Some of the family recipes (written in literal code) were entrusted to Enea, who’s adapted them for Compá’s menu.
Compá has 12 flavours, including chocolate and rosemary, coffee, vegan hazelnut, and orange-infused ricotta. Four specials rotate weekly. As well as cones and cups, three generous scoops of gelato can be smooshed into a brioche bun. Or you can try Compá’s own creation: two scoops in a cannoli shell dipped in pistachio crumbs at either end and dusted with icing sugar.
There are also four different granitas served with pure, non-thickened cream, four vegan sorbettos and five frappes. Wood-roasted coffee is available from Ricci – Foderá’s own roaster at the back of Il Melograno.
Traditional Sicilian gelato grew out of Arab cultures and the consistency is denser and chewier than northern-Italian gelato. Bits of nuts or tiny chunks of orange rind can often be found in Compá’s scoops.
All the gelato is free of preservatives, artificial flavourings and, rather than using a generic white base, each flavour is made from scratch using Australian ingredients.