Billy van Creamy Fitzroy North

Less than a year after organic gelato truck Billy Van Creamy hit the streets, brothers Alex and Mitch Wells found this space, just a few minutes’ walk from Edinburgh Gardens.

The 30-seat pop-up has outlived its March 2016 expiry date, but may come to a sudden end at any time due to the leasing arrangement. It's decked out with communal tables and playful cone murals by artist Billie Justice Thomson. It doesn’t look much like a pop-up – the clean timber lines and massive service counter look as architecturally savvy as the average permanent venue.

It offers the same flavours as the truck. That means lots of simple classics: hazelnut, pistachio, lemon salted caramel and the like.

Each flavour uses only five ingredients: the base flavour (for example fresh mint or roasted macadamias), Demeter milk, cane sugar, cream and an egg-yolk stabiliser. Everything is organic except the cream. This is about as pure and tasty as ice-cream comes.