Before it was a bar, this 1907 heritage building was a bank. Current owner Publican Group has maintained that feeling, restoring the iconic Swan Street red-brick facade and adding some nifty decor inside, such as indoor plants, a big glistening chandelier and very bank-teller-y green-and-gold desk lamps on top of the Art Deco-style tiled bar. Proceed up the brass railing staircase to a second-level bar and massive rooftop terrace for more of this.

Dylan Evans (ex-State of Grace, Kid Boston) heads the kitchen with upscale but unfussy pub-grub dishes, including smoked free-range grandmother ham with truffle potato salad and sourdough bread, or 180-gram hanger steak with black cabbage and seaweed butter.

You can also go for one of its signature cocktails. This includes The Loomis Fargo, with Macallan and Laphroaig whisky in a smoking (literally) balloon glass garnished with a slice of honeycomb. Or “invest in shares” – for groups of two to four, as the menu advises – with either The Joint Account jug (rum, lime, cherry and pineapple juice and maple syrup) or the Notorious G&T (with tonic foam and Campari dust).

Pop in from 11am on Sunday for a three-hour “bottomless brunch” that offers all-you-can-drink prosecco and Mimosas, plus breakfast goodies such as toasted-oat and mixed-seed granola with yoghurt sorbet. And corn croquettes with flaked confit salmon. Think of it as a party brunch.