Like Fitzroy, Richmond has a proud working-class history. This background is still evident in the narrow, one-way streets, even if most of the small worker’s cottages have now been renovated and occupied by young professionals or wealthy downsizers.

The north end, along busy Victoria Street, is the last real holdout against gentrification. Known as Little Saigon, it’s been a destination for authentic, affordable Vietnamese cuisine for decades. For many residents, easy access to steaming bowls of pho and crispy banh xeo pancakes is one of the suburb’s biggest draws.

Another is proximity to the ‘G and other stadiums. Richmond is the place to be if you’re a footy or cricket fanatic. On game days, the area’s many pubs – another vestige of its working class history – are reliably filled with fans grabbing a few pints before the first bounce. One pub, the Corner Hotel, has been a live music venue since the 1940s and hosted names such as Mick Jagger, David Gilmour, the White Stripes, Ben Harper, Crowded House and Queens of the Stone Age.

Bridge Road was once a major retail destination, particularly for clothing. It bottomed out in August 2014 and has been slowly transforming into a dining destination since. Anchovy and Minamishima, two of the city’s best restaurants, call the strip home. On the more casual end, Swan Street hosts well-loved diners like Hanoi Hannah New Quarter and The Modern Eatery.

The south end of Church Street, close to the Yarra, is one of the better places in Melbourne to shop for furniture and homewares.

Restaurants

Oster

Restaurant

Northern Italian fare in a dimly lit osteria.

Piccolo Grand

Restaurant

Pizza, disco, parmas, prosecco. It's all in an Italian pub-within-a-pub.

Future Future

Restaurant

The food at this Japanese diner is far from traditional, but it's authentically simple.

1090 Burger

Restaurant

Grass-fed Angus beef and a top-secret marinade, served on brioche.

Thanh Ha 2

Restaurant

Known for two Vietnamese specialties: sizzling pancake and steamed rice paper rolls filled with minced pork and wood-ear mushrooms.

Eazy Peazy

Restaurant

The team behind Toji Sake delivers hibachi-grilled yakitori skewers, Wagyu with beef-fat butter, and crunchy tofu-skin duck gyoza alongside sake Margaritas and cold Japanese beer.

Cafes

Otto

Cafe

Japanese-inspired dishes in a modern space replete with marble tabletops and beige leather booths.

Feast of Merit

Cafe

By dining here, you're helping people in the Third World get a feed of their own.

Hector’s Deli

Cafe

A classic sandwich shop with elevated ingredients and credentials.

Laikon Deli

Cafe

This Greek deli’s third-generation owner is serving contemporary takes on his mother’s recipes.

Tofu Shop International

Cafe

Fresh bean curd turned into creative lunches since 1982.

Gontran Cherrier Richmond

Cafe

The third outpost of the inventive French boulangerie is a testing ground as well as a bakery.

Bars

Union House

Bar

A big, relaxed pub by the team behind The Marquis of Lorne.

Corner Hotel

Bar

If you’re a live music fan in Melbourne you’ll have been there more than once already.

Brogan's Way Distillery

Bar

A gin specialist hidden in the back streets, with charcuterie and other snacks.

The Collection

Bar

A Cajun-inspired bar with a serious approach to booze.

The Ugly Duckling

Bar

A sophisticated wine bar that wants you to feel like you’re entertaining at home.

Fargo and Co.

Bar

A heritage Commonwealth Bank turned 200-seat double-level bar.

Shops

Nutrition Bar

Shop

Grab-and-go health food for the post-gym set.

Trophy Wife Nail Art

Shop

Creative nail art in Richmond.

Bertie's Butcher

Shop

A butcher and cafe where provenance means everything.

Mark Douglass Design

Shop

Master glassmaker Mark Douglass' elegant retail space in Richmond.

Global Vintage Collective

Shop

Rummage through Californian vintage in Richmond.

Jardan Flagship

Shop

This local and environmentally conscious furniture company has a flagship store in Richmond you’ll wish you could live in.