Like Fitzroy, Richmond has a proud working-class history. This background is still evident in the narrow, one-way streets, even if most of the small worker’s cottages have now been renovated and occupied by young professionals or wealthy downsizers.

The north end, along busy Victoria Street, is the last real holdout against gentrification. Known as Little Saigon, it’s been a destination for authentic, affordable Vietnamese cuisine for decades. For many residents, easy access to steaming bowls of pho and crispy banh xeo pancakes is one of the suburb’s biggest draws.

Another is proximity to the ‘G and other stadiums. Richmond is the place to be if you’re a footy or cricket fanatic. On game days, the area’s many pubs – another vestige of its working class history – are reliably filled with fans grabbing a few pints before the first bounce. One pub, the Corner Hotel, has been a live music venue since the 1940s and hosted names such as Mick Jagger, David Gilmour, the White Stripes, Ben Harper, Crowded House and Queens of the Stone Age.

Bridge Road was once a major retail destination, particularly for clothing. It bottomed out in August 2014 and has been slowly transforming into a dining destination since. Anchovy and Minamishima, two of the city’s best restaurants, call the strip home. On the more casual end, Swan Street hosts well-loved diners like Hanoi Hannah New Quarter and The Modern Eatery.

The south end of Church Street, close to the Yarra, is one of the better places in Melbourne to shop for furniture and homewares.

Restaurants

Hanoi Hannah New Quarter

Restaurant

It’s the biggest and boldest of all the Hanoi Hannah venues.

Baby

Restaurant

The sister restaurant to Chin Chin and Kong is all about pizza.

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Oster

Restaurant

Northern Italian fare in a dimly lit osteria.

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Noir

Restaurant

A local Richmond favourite.

Onda

Restaurant

Colourful walls, colourful food. That's the proposition at this loosely South American eatery with a strong vegetarian slant.

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Piccolo Grand

Restaurant

Pizza, disco, parmas, prosecco. It's all in an Italian pub-within-a-pub.

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Cafes

Friends of Mine

Cafe

An all-day every-day cafe with a solid list of brunch cocktails.

Top Paddock

Cafe

A local landmark from Melbourne cafe royalty.

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Hector’s Deli

Cafe

A classic sandwich shop with elevated ingredients and credentials.

Mayday

Cafe

Coffee is the focus at this spot from Axil Coffee Roasters, but the menu is no B-team.

Otto

Cafe

Japanese-inspired dishes in a modern space replete with marble tabletops and beige leather booths.

Feast of Merit

Cafe

By dining here, you're helping people in the Third World get a feed of their own.

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Bars

Uitgang Bar

Bar

An Exit Brewery bar with a foreign name but a local approach.

Harlow

Bar

The former Great Britain Hotel is now a pub with a 250-person outdoor courtyard, and a kitchen doling out cheeseburger empanadas, crab doughnuts, and duck sausage rolls.

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Union House

Bar

A big, relaxed pub by the team behind The Marquis of Lorne.

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Corner Hotel

Bar

If you’re a live music fan in Melbourne you’ll have been there more than once already.

Brogan's Way Distillery

Bar

A gin specialist hidden in the back streets, with charcuterie and other snacks.

The Collection

Bar

A Cajun-inspired bar with a serious approach to booze.

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Shops

Wootten

Shop

Continuing an age old craft.

Nutrition Bar

Shop

Grab-and-go health food for the post-gym set.

Trophy Wife Nail Art

Shop

Creative nail art in Richmond.

Bertie's Butcher

Shop

A butcher and cafe where provenance means everything.

Mark Douglass Design

Shop

Master glassmaker Mark Douglass' elegant retail space in Richmond.

Global Vintage Collective

Shop

Rummage through Californian vintage in Richmond.