Like Fitzroy, Richmond has a proud working-class history. This background is still evident in the narrow, one-way streets, even if most of the small worker’s cottages have now been renovated and occupied by young professionals or wealthy downsizers.

The north end, along busy Victoria Street, is the last real holdout against gentrification. Known as Little Saigon, it’s been a destination for authentic, affordable Vietnamese cuisine for decades. For many residents, easy access to steaming bowls of pho and crispy banh xeo pancakes is one of the suburb’s biggest draws.

Another is proximity to the ‘G and other stadiums. Richmond is the place to be if you’re a footy or cricket fanatic. On game days, the area’s many pubs – another vestige of its working class history – are reliably filled with fans grabbing a few pints before the first bounce. One pub, the Corner Hotel, has been a live music venue since the 1940s and hosted names such as Mick Jagger, David Gilmour, the White Stripes, Ben Harper, Crowded House and Queens of the Stone Age.

Bridge Road was once a major retail destination, particularly for clothing. It bottomed out in August 2014 and has been slowly transforming into a dining destination since. Anchovy and Minamishima, two of the city’s best restaurants, call the strip home. On the more casual end, Swan Street hosts well-loved diners like Hanoi Hannah New Quarter and The Modern Eatery.

The south end of Church Street, close to the Yarra, is one of the better places in Melbourne to shop for furniture and homewares.

Restaurants

  • If you’re after Italian with a fun, neighbourhood feel, head here. Restaurateur Chris Lucas’s buzzing southside spot turns out pizzas alongside salumi and traditional, crowd-pleasing pastas.

  • A slick all-day eatery from the Reymond siblings, with an emphasis on relaxed yet elegant dining.

  • Generous, home-style Laotian food is the draw at this relaxed restaurant from chef Thi Le and partner Jia-Yen Lee. Roll in for crisp rice salad with sour pork and freshly grated coconut, and whole spatchcock with pineapple salsa.

  • Inside this banh mi bar from the Jeow team, a woodfire hearth turns out turmeric chicken, jungle pork sausage and Manchurian pumpkin to fill the crusty baguettes.

  • There’s always plenty of action in the Prince’s grand front bar, but it’s the breezy, shaded beer garden that really commands the crowds. Get down early if you plan to scoff your burger or a steak at a table. Otherwise, this southside magnet is the kind of place where you can expect to stand on weekends.

  • Sip Martinis while overlooking 360-degree views of Melbourne, indulge in classic pizzas and pillowy house-made gnocchi or descend into the neon-lit basement for a signature late-night cheeseburger.

Cafes

  • At this “cellar door” for coffee you can taste up to five single-origin brews in a single visit.

  • A classic sandwich shop with elevated ingredients and credentials.

  • Providing the Richmond community with its daily newspaper, milk and bread since 1956. Go for classics alongside Mediterranean-style plates like Turkish cilbir and Greek kaski. Plus, Small Batch coffee and nostalgic thickshakes.

  • A social-enterprise cafe upholding the idea of a fair go.

  • Croissants are baked four times a day at this popular bakery, which has been a locals’ favourite since 2018. Go for its hot coffee alongside doughnuts, fancy cakes by the slice, boeuf bourguignon pies and pork and fennel sauso rolls.

  • This peachy space is designed for takeovers by cakers, floral artists and other creatives. Expect lacy vintage cakes, floral sculptures and watercolour cakes, plus workshops, tastings and lots of collaborations.

Bars

  • Victoria’s second-oldest craft brewery is still one of its best. Head here for pizza and drinks to find out for yourself.

  • You’re not a live music fan in Melbourne unless you’ve been to the Corner. The room – and its infamous solitary column – is rightfully an icon. But did you know it also has a killer rooftop and beer garden upstairs?

  • The father-daughter duo behind Brogan’s Way believe there’s a gin for everyone. Yours may well be the distillery’s Strawberries and Cream gin, served in a Martini or G&T. Watch the distillers in action over plates of crisp, European-style flatbreads and gin-friendly bar snacks.

  • Grant Morley was a scientist before he ran a brewery. His scientific precision shines through at his 70s-designed brewpub – where you’ll find tropical-tasting hazy IPAs, American pale ales, English dark milds and more. You can even enjoy a pint with food from one of the excellent nearby restaurants.

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  • A charming, light-filled wine bar from two Melbourne hospitality veterans. Expect French-leaning fare driven by razor-sharp technique. Plus an excellent wine list spanning Australia, France, Italy and Germany.

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  • Dark tones and dim lights set the mood at this casual yet sophisticated wine and cocktail bar. Bar food might include imported cheese, salumi or kingfish crudo. Enjoy their humble dishes alongside classic cocktails such as the Singapore Sling, and more seasonal creative mixes.

Shops

  • This curated Californian vintage store feels like it’s on Melrose Avenue in LA, not in the middle of Richmond. Whether you've set your heart on a pair of original cowboy boots, a bejewelled bolero, US army dead stock or some classic Levi’s, you’re unlikely to leave empty-handed.

  • An ambitious bar and bottle shop showcasing rare drops from around the world. Buy a bottle, pay corkage and park on a stool at the long countertop bar, or hop on a three-glass wine flight if you're feeling adventurous.

  • A high-end furniture showroom featuring European labels such as Cassina, Kettal, Moroso and Poltrona Frau. There's even a Le Corbusier on display.

  • This shop is stocked full of outerwear staples from the Melbourne label, which is best known for its winter coats. Think classic cuts in wool-cashmere blends, and reversible jackets made from faux shearling.

  • Continuing an age old craft.

  • Grab-and-go health food for the post-gym set.