Like Fitzroy, Richmond has a proud working-class history. This background is still evident in the narrow, one-way streets, even if most of the small worker’s cottages have now been renovated and occupied by young professionals or wealthy downsizers.

The north end, along busy Victoria Street, is the last real holdout against gentrification. Known as Little Saigon, it’s been a destination for authentic, affordable Vietnamese cuisine for decades. For many residents, easy access to steaming bowls of pho and crispy banh xeo pancakes is one of the suburb’s biggest draws.

Another is proximity to the ‘G and other stadiums. Richmond is the place to be if you’re a footy or cricket fanatic. On game days, the area’s many pubs – another vestige of its working class history – are reliably filled with fans grabbing a few pints before the first bounce. One pub, the Corner Hotel, has been a live music venue since the 1940s and hosted names such as Mick Jagger, David Gilmour, the White Stripes, Ben Harper, Crowded House and Queens of the Stone Age.

Bridge Road was once a major retail destination, particularly for clothing. It bottomed out in August 2014 and has been slowly transforming into a dining destination since. Anchovy and Minamishima, two of the city’s best restaurants, call the strip home. On the more casual end, Swan Street hosts well-loved diners like Hanoi Hannah New Quarter and The Modern Eatery.

The south end of Church Street, close to the Yarra, is one of the better places in Melbourne to shop for furniture and homewares.

Restaurants

Ca Com

Restaurant

Inside this banh mi bar from the Anchovy team, a woodfire hearth turns out turmeric chicken, jungle pork sausage and Manchurian pumpkin to fill the crusty baguettes.

New Quarter

Restaurant

Enter this warmly lit space – by the owners of Tokyo Tina, Hanoi Hannah and Firebird – for playful takes on classic Vietnamese dishes and drinks.

Anchovy

Restaurant

Fusion doesn't have to be a dirty word. Not at this modern Vietnamese restaurant with an Australian influence, anyway.

Bahari

Restaurant

Modern Greek food by a former Masterchef contestant.

Piccolo Grand

Restaurant

Pizza, disco, parmas, prosecco. It's all in an Italian pub-within-a-pub.

Baby

Restaurant

The sister restaurant to Chin Chin and Kong is all about pizza.

Cafes

Warkop

Cafe

Warkop is a snug, laid-back sandwich shop headed by Indonesian chef Barry Susanto. On the menu, you’ll find a line-up of bready classics, from the aromatic chicken sanga, to a beef pastrami with coconutty rendang sauce, and a soft grilled brioche with custard-like coconut jam.

Mayday

Cafe

Coffee is the focus at this spot from Axil Coffee Roasters, but the menu is no B-team.

Hector’s Deli

Cafe

A classic sandwich shop with elevated ingredients and credentials.

Feast of Merit

Cafe

This Richmond diner serves hearty Middle Eastern fare, including massive salads and big roasts. Upstairs, it's all about the lush rooftop, which serves vegetarian-friendly snacks and cocktails.

Friends of Mine

Cafe

An all-day every-day cafe with a solid list of brunch cocktails.

Top Paddock

Cafe

A local landmark from Melbourne cafe royalty.

Book a Table

Bars

The Ugly Duckling

Bar

A sophisticated wine bar that wants you to feel like you’re entertaining at home.

Order on Providoor

Fargo and Co.

Bar

This former Commonwealth Bank branch is now 200-seat double-level bar. Come here for classic pub grub and beers. It's also well known for its rooftop terrace, which plays host to bottomless brunches during the day and boozy cocktail session in the evenings.

Union House

Bar

At this big, relaxed pub by the team behind The Marquis of Lorne, there are a lot of spaces to choose from. There's the downstairs front bar, with 10 taps serving crafts and classics. Upstairs, a dining room with a pub and bistro menu. And on the roof, a terrace bar with views out over Richmond.

Corner Hotel

Bar

You're not a live music fan in Melbourne unless you've been to the Corner. The room – and its infamous solitary column – is rightfully an icon. But did you know it also has a killer rooftop and beer garden upstairs?

Harlow

Bar

The former Great Britain Hotel is now a pub with a 250-person outdoor courtyard, and a kitchen doling out cheeseburger empanadas, crab doughnuts, and duck sausage rolls.

Uitgang Bar

Bar

An Exit Brewery bar with a foreign name but a local approach.

Shops

Friends With Frank

Shop

This appointment-only shop is stocked full of outerwear staples from the Melbourne label, which is best known for its winter coats. Think classic cuts in wool-cashmere blends, and reversible jackets made from faux shearling.

Mark Douglass Design

Shop

Master glassmaker Mark Douglass' elegant retail space in Richmond.

Wootten

Shop

Continuing an age old craft.

Nutrition Bar

Shop

Grab-and-go health food for the post-gym set.

Trophy Wife Nail Art

Shop

Creative nail art in Richmond.

Bertie's Butcher

Shop

A butcher and cafe where provenance means everything.