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Tipo 00, named after the finely ground flour used to make pizza and pasta, is owned by chef Andreas Papadakis – last seen in the kitchen at Vue de Monde – as well as head chef Alberto Fava (ex- Merchant) and Luke Skidmore.

Papadakis cooks with the same ingredients and techniques acquired from his time in fine diners, but takes an unfussy approach with clean, simple elements here.

Best sellers include al dente asparagus and sage tortelloni oozing with Parmesan sauce, squid-ink tagliolini and flawlessly smooth gnocchi with porcini mushrooms and braised duck, the latter sourced direct from Gippsland.

A couple of secondi and dolci also grace the menu, alongside snacks such as salumi and fegato (pan-fried calf liver and balsamic) – best enjoyed at the bar, Aperol Spritz in hand. The rest of the drinks list is heavy with Italian wines. Bottles from Piedmont and Tuscany are interspersed with Australian cameos and Amaro and Grappa are available come digestivo.

The space is courtesy of Collaborative Collectif and Aaron McKenzie. Showpieces such as copper lights and vast white marble bench tops are pretty slick, but clever use of paint – sea green on the ceiling and a geometric pattern on the concrete floor – make the 42-seater feel more relaxed.

A recipe from Tipo 00 is featured in The Broadsheet Italian Cookbook. Buy your copy at shop.broadsheet.com.au.