This Mexican restaurant – from the team behind excellent food truck Dingo Ate My Taco – has almost no outside signage and is practically hidden off a Chinatown laneway. Vinyl plays, the lighting is moody and a long terracotta tile counter seats you directly at the pass.

Find this bolthole and the rewards are great. The kitchen uses a small tortilla machine imported from Mexico to roll out warm discs of masa for its tacos. The star is the al pastor: pork shoulder marinated in pineapple juice and spices, topped with pickled pineapple, white onion and coriander. Other favourites include birria tacos and kangaroo asada marinated in orange, garlic and Mexican oregano. Vegan tacos with grilled mushrooms and caramelised hibiscus flowers show off the kitchen’s creativity and skill.

The drinks list features a handful of mezcals, cocktails and three carefully chosen beers: Sol, Negro Modelo and Melbourne Bitter.