Susie Wong is at the less-frequented far end of Chapel Street in Windsor.
Owner Peter Capurso started his career as a chef before drifting into interior design. He’s now made a full trip around the block and has a defiant air of been there, done that, can we get on with it already? This is reflected in the concise and very reasonably-priced wine list of mostly French and Italian wines.
The mid-range, mod-Asian menu is to the point, too, but really fun. It was designed by executive chef Jerry Mai and 22-year-old young gun Daniel Sullivan is head chef. It balances a disparate ensemble of pan-Asian elements – Cambodian curry, pho noodles, nahm jim, XO sauce, kimchi, crab fried rice.
The red-curry lamb ribs for entree are an early highlight. With a subtle crackle of cumin on top, the meat slips off the bone. The Milawa chicken, slow-poached with its bones in red masterstock, cassia bark and orange peel, comes out chopped and quartered and is a triumph for overlooked chicken dishes everywhere. For vegetarians, the mushroom ma po tofu smoulders with robust chilli and crushed peppercorns – definitely not a flippant, non-meat afterthought.
You also won’t be shoulder-to-shoulder on any communal tables. Under the vaulted ceilings and roomy interior you can actually breathe and eat with your elbows stuck out, if you want to.