Featuring a modern menu of re-imagined Italian dishes, Sarti has been a Melbourne institution from day one. Revamped in May 2013, Sarti reopened as a more casual Italian eatery with a New York bistro style, featuring a refreshed menu, redesigned interiors and a new logo glowing in signature neon red out in Russell Place.

The menu itself, courtesy of head chef Paolo Masciopinto (of Sosta Cucina and Stokehouse fame), remains top tier. Kingfish carpaccio with grapefruit and fiery green chilli is popular, as is quail with fried polenta, cavalo nero and grapes. A fresh pasta of squid ink linguine with blue swimmer crab might follow, or perhaps a soft duck rotolo with wild mushrooms and Parmesan. To finish, try a Mossvale blue cheese with candied fig, or dark chocolate semifreddo with homemade honeycomb for the sweet tooth.

Sarti has shed the white tablecloths of a bygone era. What remains is slick, agile and ready to take on modern Melbourne.