Ruby is by the team behind Operator25, Operator Diner and Operator San, a trio of spots well regarded for quintessentially Melbourne brunch offerings with Japanese – or, in the case of Operator Diner, American – twists.

The breakfast menu has the kinds of dishes you’d expect to find at the group’s other venues. Croque madame sits comfortably next to baked eggs and shokupan French toast.

But the lunch and dinner offering is more reminiscent of the food found at the London and New York brasseries. There are bistro staples like steak frites with bearnaise sauce, a hamburger served with pickles and fries, and a ricotta ravioli with beetroot and brown butter. For dessert, there are brown butter madeleines with whipped goat cheese and honey or a coupe filled with lemon sorbet and hibiscus jelly.

When you enter the restaurant, you’re greeted by high ceilings, dark timber and touches of bright red finishes – a feature that Dhamanhuri says inspired the name. The team aims to add some respite from the hustle and bustle of the surrounding CBD streets.