Paul Jewson and Marco Pugnaloni, the duo behind nearby Fitzrovia, opened Roxborough at the end of 2016, to add something a little homier to tourist-centric Acland Street.
Like Fitzrovia, it shares a genuine focus on local and seasonal produce, but feels altogether more rugged. Vegetables are delivered straight from the ground, mud and all, from Glenora Heritage Produce, a small organic farm near Tooborac. Market visits are a daily occurrence.
Chef and third business partner Christian Byrne oversees a loosely Mediterranean menu that’s best shared among a few people. Start with olives, oysters and some chicken-liver parfait before moving onto housemade semolina pastas such as linguine marinara; smoked pork-hock orecchiette; and gnocchi with Swiss brown mushrooms, pine nuts, goats curd and salted ricotta. Meatier mains include porchetta, flatiron steak and pork and fennel sausages.
Like the menu, the interior hovers somewhere between opulent and relaxed. Original Art Deco details have been retained, but a small library of cookbooks and an abundance of white impart a breezy Hamptons feel. A log fire crackles away in winter, glinting off the dozens of bottles that make up the thoughtful wine list.