Melbourne has plenty of high-end omakase counters. But none are like Ronin Omakase. Patrick Kwong’s 10-seater honours traditional Japanese dishes and techniques, while taking influences from cuisines you’d never see in the omakase format, such as Malaysian and Italian.

The concrete-clad space in the former home of Massi is elegant, minimalist and invitingly warm. Diners can take a seat at the intimate L-shaped bar and watch as maverick sushi masters craft the 13-course menu.

The offering changes daily, but past dishes include sliced red prawn nigiri topped with laksa butter; salmon nigiri with yuzu miso and cured egg yolk; and A5 Kagoshima Wagyu powdered in Wagyu fat. Also, a playful spin on Hainanese fish rice, a classic Southeast Asian dish.

In another twist on omakase dining (which traditionally involves sake, wine and tea), Ronin offers a cocktail pairing with your meal, as well as a tight selection of rum, whisky, tequila and non-alc options.