This modern Italian restaurant – on Mair Street opposite the Gov Hub building – has a huge following. We can see why. It’s a warm and intimate space, painted pale cordovan (think salmon pink) and with locally made concrete bar tops.

Co-owner Drew Harry is a legend of the Ballarat hospitality scene. He says Ragazzone loosely translates as “childish adult”, which hints at the casual vibe here – seriously good food and drink but without a hint of stuffiness. You can try your luck with a walk-up for lunch, but our tip is to book for dinner and take your time over the rotating chef’s selection.

The signature pasta dish for lunch is the squid ink d’angelo, with spanner crab, chilli, garlic and shell oil. The Moreton Bay bugs (served with a potato wafer and peperonata) is a crowd favourite. Cocktails are colourful and fun. Try the Calabrian soda, made with gin, peach, lemon thyme, verjus and soda, or the Nonino (bourbon, Aperol, amaro and mandarin soda).