Pembroke Bar and Kitchen

Owner of Pembroke Bar and Kitchen Adrian Morrissy was drawn to Surrey Hills because of its small-town feel. And while the interiors of the eatery are more urbane than suburban, there are parts that feel like an extension of a family home. Cookbooks are piled up on shelves beside bottles of wine, and cosy banquette seating is dotted with velvet cushions.

There are also dramatic beaten-copper light fixtures, and petite marble counters for two – perfect for dates. A roomy courtyard has patio heaters, hessian drapery and a transparent roof to keep sunlight trickling in during winter.

The menu is a concise Mediterranean sharing menu that embraces richness and subtlety. There’s kingfish with fennel and grapefruit; gnocchi with burnt-carrot puree; four-hour sous-vide octopus finished over charcoal, served with harissa and skordalia; and braised goat with chickpeas and cavolo nero. For dessert, poached quince with rosewater and pistachio.

The wine list is a mix of Australian and European drops, and there’s Furphy on tap, poured by a friendly, laid-back staff.