This is a quintessential souvlaki bar: hordes of hungry punters pressed against a stainless steel and glass counter; where the al fresco eating is framed by roll-up plastic drapes; and everything smells like fire.

A team of souva-technicians expertly chars enormous rolls of chicken and lamb, assembled with iceberg lettuce, tomato, onion and garlic sauce and then sent out with mixed platters of dolmades, marinated octopus, chargrilled zucchini and tzatziki.

It’s simple, but it's perfect.