If any family in Melbourne knows seafood, it’s the Tran family: Van Tran and her husband David Tran Sr were the driving force behind Footscray Market’s famed D&K Live Seafood. Muli Express is the oyster bar rendition of the family’s seafood restaurant Muli. Nestled in a small shopfront, you’ll likely find son David Tran Jr behind the counter (and smiling with customers on Instagram).

Each oyster variety is given a special name by the Tran family, to give them identity and individuality. Baby Pitt is from Pittwater; Big Boy from Duck Bay; Miss Candy from Moulting Bay; and So Extra from Boomer Bay. David Sr says the oysters’ taste, farmers, region and size all play a role in their naming. In addition to oysters, you’ll find congee, lobster rolls, marron rolls, oyster ice-cream and sea urchins.

The 18-square-foot outpost is more casual than the restaurant and is a bit like stepping into their family home. There are a couple of small tables, draped in white lace to match the curtains, but most of the work (and eating) is done standing at the counter. Muli Express offers takeaway, but the Tran family believes the best way is to stand and eat.