Veteran chef Geoff Lindsay (owner at Dandelion) took over Lamaro’s in 2017, with partner Paul Dimattina. They were attracted by the pub’s classic old bones and strong culinary history.
The duo gave the plush carpeted dining room a touch up, but the pub has otherwise remained a long lunch sort of place popular with an older crowd. The wine list plays to this crowd with bottles from Jim Barry and Vasse Felix, but mixes in up-and-comers such as South Australia’s BK Wines.
The main menu is inspired by Lindsay’s early career, before it took a turn to Vietnamese. That means housemade potato gnocchi; slow-roasted lamb shoulder with freekeh; and parmesan- and herb-crumbed veal schnitzel with creamy slaw. Steaks are fired in Josper oven, lending them more char than a typical grill.
The bar menu is more global and includes banh mi, Reuben sandwiches, moules frites and fish-head curry.