La Madonna

La Madonna is a cavernous, golden-lit restaurant and bar on Next Hotel's third-floor. When you enter the 80 Collins-precinct space, you’ll be struck by a sweeping marble staircase (with a dramatic chandelier made from hundreds of gold chains); a suspended ceramics installation; a grandiose, four-metre-high glass cabinet for cheese and charcuterie; and an area cornered off by a wall of barrels filled with aging cocktails, spirits and herbal liquors.

Start at the bar with an amphora-aged Negroni, which swaps out Campari for St George Spirits’ Bruto Americano, blended with Widges gin and Mancino rosso vermouth. Or there might be a Martini matured for two weeks in ex-chardonnay barrels, and a Manhattan that’s spent four weeks in new charred-oak barrels. The wine list favors Italian, French and Australian varietals.

Next, move on to the restaurant. There are riffs on traditional Italian dishes, as well as some less obvious offerings. Starter highlights have included stracciatella with pepperonata, honey and spent focaccia, and Wagyu bresaola with romesco and pickled zucchini. Or perhaps try pan-fried gnocchi with kimchi, broccoli and fresh curds, and La Madonna's signature Aperol-glazed dry-aged duck.